1997 Bonny Doon

Oct 28, 2010 4 Replies

I was culling through some wines in my cellar and came upon a couple of bottles of 1997 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant which is Randall Grahm's hommage to CNP. The wine was bought on release and stored at



55F. It's a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre although any resemblence to CNP is purely accidental. I recall drinking the wine on release and enjoying the California fruit flavors that reminded my more of Village Beaujolais than CNP. The synthetic cork was a fairly thin plasctic affair that slid out of the bottle with ease. The cork was saturated about 50% of it's very short length with deep pruple residue. After the initial bottle funk blew off the wine still had a pronounced,stemmy, funky green smell that reminded my of rotting grass clippings. In the glass the wine was a cloudy medium- light red with a brickish cast. Flavors were of bitter grape skins (there was a serious amount of residueclinging to all sides of the bottle) and old apples. Clearly past it's prime the wine was still fiercly tannic which is not something that I remembered from it's youth. Not sure if this was a cork failure (I opened the remaining three bottles to the same result) or if it was just not made to last. I did taste a few hours later and again this morning and the wine still had a bitter tanninc funk to it. NR

surprised by the tannins, but those early synthetic corks had about a

90% mortality rate after 4 o 5 years, much less decade+ Supposedly some are supposed to be better now, but I generally regard syn-corks as sign to drink with 2-3 years

My thoughts perzackly, Dale. My experience with aging wines sealed with fake corks is "dead on arrival." In fact, one of my very early posts to AFW was about a '96 Siduri PN that was absolutely dead when opened in '99 or '00. I was too new to the phenomenon then to recognize it for what it was, but I have studiously avoided aging any wines sealed under fake cork for the last 5 years at least. Reduction be damned: bring on the screwcaps!

Mark Lipton

Mark wrote on Thu, 28 Oct 2010 23:56:29 -0400:

For my education, are "synthetic" corks those ribbed plastic stoppers (polyethylene, I think) or those apparently composed of ground up cork bound by some sort of plastic? I don't think I've seen either lately in the younger wines that I drink day to day, tho' neither worked very well, IMO.

This "cork" was a somewhat soft plastic "plug" the size and shape of a cork but the material was slightly pliable and it slid out of the bottle with little resistance. It was actually slightly porous and had absorbed quite a bit of color.

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