Dinner notes:
2004 Balthasar Ress Hattenheimer Shutzenhaus Riesling Kabinett - this Rheingau wine was a perfect match with the salmon mousse starter. Light in colour, good fruit in the nose, although little petrol, sweet fruit on palate and an instant gush of acidity that was very refreshing.1993 Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin - this was the village wine, not the Clos St. Jacques. It opened with a spicy cherry nose, and was smooth and well balanced, completely pleasurable with nothing to disturb the impression.
1992 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze - a vintage often overlooked, this wine had nothing to apologize for. More complex in the nose with both fruit and an earthiness present, greater length and persistence, sweeter fruit all around, and it continued to open nicely in the glass for some time. Very nice.With duck confit and duck breast.
1985 Warres Port - pretty decent nose, not too hot, with dried fruit and some coffee. The colour showing very slightly paler than in the past, but deep enough to label it as an 80s wine before you tasted it. On palate, more heat, but nothing objectionable, and there was more red fruit than was evident in the nose. Medium body, with soft tannins. Probably now pretty much fully mature, but I think this one should have an interesting future and may age very gracefully, possibly picking up even more flavour complexity and interest. I have a small stash that I haven't touched yet and will look at it in a few years.A very pleasant way to spend an evening.