Created in 1971, the AOC of Gigondas produces a typical encepagement of Grenache with varying amounts of syrah and Mourvedre, and the wine range from decent to really excellent. I wanted to do a survey tasting of these wines and arranged a dinner at a sutable restaurant, and a line up of wines that included a nice range of Gigondas.
2005 Arnoux & Fils Vieux Clocher - a producer I do not know, but the old clock tower turned out well. Sweet raspberry nose, a little spirity (they only admitted to 14.5%), sweet on palate, very nice now with soft tannins. No rush, but why wait?1998 Dom. Santa Duc - mature nose, fruit and funk together, with slight volatile acidity, and lots of heat. Again, the bottle didn't tell the real story on alcohol, but Parker lists this one at 15.3%. Cherry fruit in the nose, good midpalate, narrowing a little at the end, and that impression was enhanced by the slightly high terminal acidity. The levels of fruit are ot so high that I would postpone gratification on this one and I doubt it will improve from here although it should hold awhile.
With an especially good salad of greens with slices of foie gras, strips of duck prosciutto and an apple filled ravioli:
2000 Feraud-Brunel - nose immediately showing more complexity than the 2005. In the nose some leather and blackberry with hints of tree resin and mint, warm but not hot, still with obvious tannins, but ready to drink and well rounded.2001 Raspail Ay - the nose was not as extroverted as the previous wine, but had more depth when you worked at it a bit, with cherry fruit and hints of thyme. Smooth and ready to drink, this was a very traditional wine that everyone enjoyed.
With Washington Fresh Water Sturgeon, fresh artichokes Barigoule (shallots, garlic, bacon braised), fennel, zucchinis, green olives, veal jus (I had misgivings about this suggestion, but overcame them and the food worked very well with these big reds)
2000 Dom. Les Pallieres - a tad hot with loads of fruit in the nose, but also some bandaid and cinnamon. Cherry fruit, and in general this wine showed as more modern with dry tannins and a very dry finish.2001 Dom. Les Pallieres - hot nose with anise, vanilla and chocolate, the wine still pretty firm. It wasn't elegant but it was tasty, and in some ways came across as more like a California wine than a Rhone, finishing a little sweet. Opinions were divided with some liking each wine. I opted for the more traditional 2000.
With Roasted Lamb loin in crust of garlic and almonds, lamb jus, seasonal vegetables and house fries:
1995 Domaine Santa Duc les Hautes Garrigues - very dark with a very concentrated nose, this was obviously a whole different level/style of wine. Warm blackberry nose with some vanilla, huge fruit on palate with significant tannins but also lots of acidity. Cropped at ridiculously low levels, this shows in the wine. It wasn't really ready yet although it was a lot of fun the way it is and it will certainly go on for many years. This is about as good as it gets in Gigondas. Thanks to RP, we know this was 15.64% alcohol.1998 St Cosme Valbelle - I was tempted to bring the 1997, which I think is even better, but we could only cover so many wines. This one turned out to be a great match with the Santa Duc. A lead pencil nose, hot and concentrated with tar, plums and blueberry, and a good whack of oak, although this did not follow through on palate. Good length with more tannin than acid, this was also an excellent wine.
With cheese:
2001 Domaine La Bouissiere Gigondas Le Font de Tonin - more cherries and blackberries in a fairly hot nose that also showed a hint of coffee. The higher Mourvedre seemed obvious with a bit more animal in the nose and the wine was big and sweet in the mouth, also one of the heavy hitter brigade, if not quite in the class of the previous pair. I have both the regular and the Font de Tonin and think I might compare them one of these days.The dinner was enjoyed by all and the wines showed a uniformity of quality ranging from pleasant to profound that was gratifying. If I were seeking big high alcohol wines with lavish sweet fruit and impressive concentration, I'd look here rather than Australia every time, but that's just my preference (and I say that owning a lot of Aussie wine as well). In the garden in the summer with a coarse sausage, a bowl of olives and a hunk of cheese, life doesn't get much better than one of these wines as accompaniment.