A word of warning about 2009s

just bought some Lanessan and Poujeaux 2009's. Merchants here say steer clear of right bank and poms unless you know what you are doing.

John

Thanks for the appropriate "heads up" Ian.

Which just about bears out what I was told. Which isn't to say that no one got it right! I tasted a Merlot/Malbec blend Bergerac (in vat) that was quite brilliant, despite being the the "bottom end" wine. I even bought a dozen! All the best Fatty in Forges

In message Ian Hoare wrote:

That is surely always true whatever the vintage and in 2009 those growers who waited for the tannins to mature before picking will undoubtedly be more successful than anybody who jumped to pick too soon. Again that is nothing new or unusual. However I recently — 2 weeks ago — enjoyed an en primeur tasting which included Ch. Sociando-Mallet, Gloria, Lagrange, Beychevelle, Marquis de Terme, Lascombes, Boyd-Cantenac and Brown as well,interestingly in the light of the comment about the Right Bank, as Taillefer. The wines were very well balanced and where there was high alcohol it was not detracting from the wines. Tannins were good and in most cases there was good acidity although my concern would be on that front with one or two of the earlier wines in the tasting — not named above. 2009 Saint-Emilions tasted en primeur earlier in the year bore no comparison to 2003. This year they tasted like the Saint-Emilions they are, without exception. In 2003 many of them tasted hot and alcohol could dominate — they could have come from some of the Languedoc growers experimenting with Merlot and Cabernet — they were an awful warning of what global warming could do. That is hardly surprising for 2003 and 2009 are really not comparable with the greatest respect to Ian. In 2003 very high temperatures began in May, there was almost no rain after mid-June and in July only a sixth of normal. Temperatures reached 40C and that, combined with the drought, actually forced the vines to stop growing in self-protection. In 2009 the weather was nearer to a normal very good year, with the exception of very cold temperatures as the Merlot finished flowering which reduced yield naturally. Moreover I was in Saint-Emilion during the vendanges both in 2003 and

2009 and there were in fact very marked differences between the years. In 2003 there was clear evidence of burning both of leaf and grapes,that was not true at all last year and I have to disagree with Ian‘s informant if he was suggesting that it was true in Saint-Emilion, which is the area of which I can speak with knowledge. The weather was very hot indeed both day and night in 2003, whereas last year there were the cool nights which not only helped prevent rot but did mean that the fruit did not either achieve or retain the very high temperatures of 2003. Most importantly the very high potential original alcohol levels were just not present in 2009. In 2003 one of the well managed vineyards in one of the satellites was bringing in grapes at over 17.5 — that would not have been true last year. In 2003 picking was very early; in 2009 it went on until the early frosts on 16th October. I would be frankly astonished if anybody who now practised as a viticulteur in a reputabe wine area was taken by surprise by the ripening of vines before expected - constant tasting and testing is the pattern of every grower I have ever come across and nearly all make several passes through the vines to ensure that the grapes they pick are as ready as possible.

I think it was Mountabatten who when in command of a destroyer flotilla responded to the news that the Italian Fleet was at sea and coming his way with the signal ”Pro bono publico, no bloody panico.• Could could it be applied to Ian‘s warning too?

Tim Hartley

No, that was my gloss on what he said. He merely said that quite a number of growers had found themselves with low acidity especially with the Merlot grape.

All the best Fatty in Forges

And somewhat parallel opinion: