Article on NZ pinot and syrah, raise an eyebrow?

I went to the NZ Wine Expo in Perth at the Hyatt last year and I must say I was disappointed by the reds in general. The whites blew me away though. I love Kiwi sauv. blanc, even though it took me a long time as an Australian to admit it ;) but there were WAY too many. By the end I felt like I'd been stripped of most of my enamel! But the Chardies and the Gewu"zes were amazing. I was really impressed and relished every taste. Stand outs were Villa Maria (a reserve SB stands out, the Chard too, but the GWTraminer knocked my socks off! We can't do anything within reach with that variety in Oz). St. Clair (I think their regular SB is one of the best value whites in the southern hemisphere) and others like Spy Valley and Pegasus (?) were pretty sensational.

When it came to the Cabernet Merlot blends, Shiraz and other varietals, I was left cold. Too much acid for my palate (Mills Reef), indifferent bouquet (Where's the fruit, mate!...*burp a' la the Infamous Attache'*) and really out-there tannin structure. Being from WA I'm quite used to cooler-climate reds from the Great Southern, Pemberton and southern parts of Margos, so I genuinely like the cool-climate styles, but I left feeling sorry for the wine-makers who had put so much effort into ripening their Cabernet to no avail. I was expecting to be converted to the Pinot cult, but it didn't happen for whatever reason. I still think to this day that the best Antipodean Pinot I ever had was from Pemberton, WA. The Picardy Te^te Du Cuvee` Pinot Noir '98. I'd never had anything like it before. The fact that I haven't had anything like it since is probably why I never joined the Pinot club. I'm open to suggestions though. Don't suggest Burgandy 'cause as a 3rd year Vit. &Oen. student I aint got the cash for largesse. Working in a serious bottle-o I'll get my chance soon enough I expect...

St. Helier, please don't kick my head in over my comments. Just appreciate the candor of someone who is trying to see the good in our nations' symbiosis and genuinely interested in NZ wines (and who's just returned from a Goon and Coon night... ;))... Apparently there's some Kiwi dude who's growing some serious Montepulciano (says it's easier to ripen than Cabernet!!!) which I really want to get my hands on. Do you know this producer?

Marcello

"Marcello Fabretti" wrote .......

My hard earned reputation as a streetfighter has stretched across the Tasman!!!! ;-)

Be afraid - be very afraid!!!!!

Marcello, provided you can tell me that you were not one of those or the tiresome attending the Melbourne games yelling "Aussie, Aussie, Aussie Oi,Oi,Oi" I can forgive you anything - besides, no-one ever has to apologise for honestly held opinions presented with reasoned arguments.

Your comments are generally succinct and accurate.

Like Australia where we are not encombered by inflexible appelation styled rules; there is still plenty of experimenting going on both in the vineyard and winery.

There are several wineries doing varieties like Montepulciano, and Tempranillo and Sangiovese and Mouvedre - together with Viognier and Verdelho and (I eagerly await) Grüner Veltliner - albeit in most cases very small areas planted, and more often than not, the wines are not in mainstream distribution as yet.

Framingham (Marlborough); Herzog (Marlborough) and Trinity Hill (Hawkes Bay) have all released Montepulciano over the past five years or so, but I doubt that you will find any in Australia.

For many years (20 or more), my buying patterns have revolved around "NZ whites and Australian reds" - and generally, for everyday drinking this remains my rule of thumb.

I would suggest, if you can, to experience the difference between North Island (Hawkes Bay - Martinborough) and South Island (Marlborough, Canterbury, Central Otago) Sauvignon Blanc.

Whereas I love the zingy Marlborough expressions of this grape, there are different tropical elements to those from Te Mata Wines (Cape Crest) or Palliser Estate (Martinborough)

There are some excellent examples of both Riesling and Gewurztraminer produced over this side of "the ditch"

Pegasus Bay "Aria" is a revelation (their 2002 is probably the best NZ Riesling I have tried.

There are numerous Gewurztraminers made in a variety of styles from bone dry to late harvest - some quite austere right through to the luscious and floral.

Stonecroft (Hawkes Bay); Dry River (Martinborough) are IMNSO the very best - but you will have to steal these as they sell out ex winery upon release.

Gewurz is a hard sell at retail (hey, if I cannot pronouce it, I won't buy it!!)

The run of the mill stuff remains green and stalky to me - the very best is a joy - regardless, you will have to get the good stuff on this side of the ditch.

If you perchance happen to see Te Mata "Coleraine" - try it - this is benchmark NZ Merlot Cabernet.

For me, NZ still has a ways to go with Pinot Noir (give us another 100 years!) - our Syrah is totally different to Australian Shiraz so any comparison is unfair (on both protagonists).

Agaihn, a variety of styles from Côte-Rotie-like spicy, gamy complexity to the more lustrous polished style.

Best ones are the Vidal Estate "Soler"; Te Mata "Bullnose" and TRinity Hill (Homage) all out of Hawkes Bay.

As to your comments Australian Cool Climate - bah humbug!!!!!

We count our days over 30degrC on one hand - that is cool climate!!!!

Leaving the expert, his Lordship, to comment on the NZ whites etc my comments are more on the PN/Syrah content of the article.

NZ Syrah has IMHO turned a quality corner in the last couple of years. There are good examples that dated back further, but there are now a range of producers with a quality drop. Vidal, Mills Reef, Craggy Range, Passage Rock spring to mind. Keep in mind there is a considerable variation in all NZ wines from year to year so it pays to take some care over which vintage you are drinking. Also keep in mind that wine is a relatively new industry. Vines over 20years of age will be rare. Plenty of varieties are planted found wanting, either for fashion or quality reasons and ripped out for something new which also keeps vine age low as well. I have a financial interest in a marlborough grape growing operation first planted in 1993. We have just completed a renovation which has resulted in considerable variety changes: less chardonnay and reisling, semillion ripped out completely, added more SB, PN and new pinot gris.

As to the PN's on the tasting list, well IMHO these are generally not out of the top drawer in quality (and price) terms. The note on the

I had a look at the next article ...........

I don't see enthusiasm for these Grand Cru wines either going by the ratings and notes, but I bet they don't come at £6-£10 !!

greybeard

Agree in toto St H Luckily just up the road from my sister in laws in Rangiora.