Notes on a bunch of 2003 Beaujolais we assembled to investigate what some have called the best vintage since 1947. We were going to do this in the garden, but the weather didn't cooperate, so we packed 14 people into my dining room and the corks started popping.
Kelowna Vyds. Artist's Series Blush $13.00 - slightly off dry, some flavour to it. If it had any more residual sugar it would be horrid. Not BC's finest hour, but OK if you had spent a sweaty hour or two au jardin - although water is cheaper and more refreshing.
Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais $16.30 - the basic BJ. Sweet fruit in the nose, but not bubblegum as it can sometimes be. Poor value compared to the Villages wine for $0.70 more...
Dom du Marquisons - Aujoux Beaujolais $17.00 - no nose, no taste, but this baby does have acidity. What were they thinking?
Jean-Paul Brun L'Ancien Beaujolais $17.00 - odd vinyl nose goes away, which is more than you can say for the slightly bitter, drying finish. Ch. du grand Talancé - Bouchacourt Beaujolais Superieur $17.00 - decent cherry nose turn to currants on the palate - I liked this tasty little wine.
Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Villages $17.00 - sweet slightly candied nose, and sweet in the mouth, with fair acidity and even a hint of tannin.
Mt. Boucherie Gamay Noir Estate Collection $13.00 - this BC Bojo wannabe wasn't so bad - an almost Pinot nose, with a tad of stinkiness, decent balance. Nose became candied with time.
Domaine Pascal Berthier Saint Amour VV $23.00 - Burgundian nose, medium body, drinks well, and a bit more complexity here.
Georges Duboeuf St. Amour $24.00 - sweetness immediately apparent. elegant and simple, also with some tannin
Georges Duboeuf Fleurie $26.00 - decent nose, lots of fruit and a bit more complex. Pretty good.
Georges Duboeuf Dom.de La Tour de Bief Moulin-a-Vent $25.00 - good nose, lots of fruit and relative tons of tannin - a serious aging candidate
Marcel Lapierre Morgon $37.00 - pretty good nose with some spice and pepper on palate, interesting, but very poor value - many Southern French and Rhone wines would kick this one in terms of QPR
Domaine Calot Cuvee Unique Vielles Vignes (100 year old vines) Morgon $32.00 - average nose, bit of H2S, tannins up front, good body, a serious wine more like a Pinot, but I thought it lacked sufficient fruit to age gracefully.
Conclusion? I'd buy the Talancé and the Tour de Bief, but that's about it. As for being the best vintage in a half century.....we saw little sign of excellence here - or maybe I expect too much?.
(PS - prices are Canadian)