How Wine Corks Age

Jan 30, 2005 39 Replies

I have a picture of(from left to right) a cork from a 1978 Ridge Zinfandel, a new cork, and a cork from a 1964 Bertani Amarone. These wines were opened in the last few weeks. The corks were sound. However they were very heavy. After they were allowed to completely dry in the kitchen, they became very light and shrank so much that they will fall through the neck of the wine bottle. The new cork was bought in about



1975. It is still elastic. The dry 1978 cork has lost all elasticity and is hard. The 1964 cork is so hard and brittle that it is easy to break it. The picture is at:

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Besides the problem of corked wines, this failure of the cork structure with extended contact with wine is the reason I hope screw caps soon become universal. However I want a heavy duty cap that will not bend or dent and that has a Teflon seal so that the cap can withstand minor rough handling and can seal for many decades without problems. Of course the present screw caps may be good enough for wines not kept for several decades, although the weak construction of them sometimes allows the caps to dent or bend and leak if the cap receives a blow. Surely a top, or even average, classified wine estate could afford to pay a little more for heavy duty screw caps, consdering the very high price their top wines now bring.



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Good point about the physical strength of the screwcap.

I am not sure about tefon as a sealant though. I believe the current sealant disks (silicone I think) are carefully designed to perform their function, and there is even research to design seling disks that are slightly porous - in case people eventually decide that is desirabe.

The liner is made from 4 layers. From outside to wine

- the screwcap itself (aluminium alloy)

- a compressed wad of expanded polyethylene

- a tin foil (gas barrier)

- a neutral PVCD (polyvinylidene chloride)- not silicone! - foil in touch with the wine. See the details of the makeup here:

Btw, current screwcaps have proven successfull in sealing over more than three decades.

M.

I find the trend towards screw tops on wine quite depressing. It's going to decimate one of the main industries in the Alentejo and other areas where there are few alternative sources of employment. Cork is an infinitely renewable resource, is biodegradeable, and will not sit around in rubbish dumps for hundreds of years like Teflon.

I'm very skeptical about tastings which report failure rates of up to 30%. I suspect any fault in the wine is nowadays ascribed to the cork. Even so, I think a few corked bottles of wine every now and again is a price we should be prepared to pay. I don't think it's fair for us wine drinkers to insist on a zero failure rate for corks, if a consequence of this is to destroy the livelihoods of people who have been involved in the industry for generations.

There are ways of improving the performance of cork, for e.g., by washing in hydrogen peroxide, but a large part of the problem is that the price for lower grades of cork has come down over the past 20 years or so, and so a great many of the problems that are emerging now arise as a result of bottlers using inferior cork in order to save money.

I don't, quite on the contrary.

OK then - how about the wax and cloth industry 200 years ago, when the first moves to cork arised? Things *are* changing, and life today is not like it has been 30, 50 or 150 years ago.

First, there is no teflon involved in scerwcaps. Second, the failure rate is alarming. No other industry worldwide could get along with such rates. The latest survey found its way to the newspapers three days ago:

or

It shows an 8 percent failure rate on some 2000 wines tasted.

The next time i'll invite you. That was the taint rate in our Bordeaux 1995 tasting (101 wines) two weeks ago.

If the back-up bottle is flawless, then I wait for your theory who the culprit might be. Or if both bottles are equally so-so (i.e. rated between 80 and 84 at best), while the wine in question, Grand-Puy-Lacoste, happens to be a Parker 95 point wine - how do you solve this question? And no - no heat or other damage possible, the bottles coming airmail directly from the chateau.

No. I am not prepared to pay this price. Some weeks ago I had dinner at my house, and the magnum of Gruaud-Larose 1961 - a wedding gift back in 1992 from a guy then working for Cordier's importers to Austria - was opend in presence of the donor to be the star of the evening. TCA, once again.

No, I am definitely fed up!

What happened to those working in the petroleum lamp business? Or those constructing steam locomotives? Sorry, but I can't follow you upon this path of reasonment.

I've heard *so* many solutions to the problems of TCA taint for almost 30 years - and *none* has proven successfull. You don't mind if I remain extremely sceptical.

Which, of course, happens to be true for Bordeaux crus classés, too? Go figure.

M.

So they'll grow cork for flooring instead of stoppering wine.

Cork is an infinitely

Teflon isn't used in screw caps.

You're very generous with MY money, aren't you?

I don't think it's fair for us wine drinkers to

The writings been on the wall for years. Besides, it's not happening overnight - even from this point in time.

It isn't so much that lower grades of cork have come down. It's more that the higher grades have become so much more expensive so quickly. Even a cheap cork is about _double_ the price of a synthetic corq. 20 years ago I bought 50cm "extra first" corks for ~10¢ apiece. Nowadays that same cork at least 5 times that price, and that still doesn't guarantee freedom from taint.

In general, winemakers are a quality oriented lot. They will eagerly adopt anything that comes along to improve their processes. Remember when barrel bungs were all made from either fir or redwood and sealed with paraffin? I havent seen a wooden bung in more than a decade because everyone uses silicone nowadays. Surely that change has put some people out of work, just as the spread of shoe laces and loafers changed the careers of button hook manufacturers. Those people are all doing something different now, and new jobs were created in aglet manufacturing.

Tom S

Can I come too ;-)

I think most sources would agree an average rate of about 5% for TCA infection. Most, though not all, would be down to the cork.

A senior person (MD I think) in Oddbins - a major UK high street wine merchant - estimated that 30% of wines are spoiled *in some way* by faulty corks.

In article , Cwdjrx _ writes

< delurk >

What about artificial corks? Surely they have the practicality of screw-caps yet retain the romance of cork?

< /delurk >

"Tom S" skrev i melding news:sW8Ld.18081$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...

Wow, I've never seen a cork 20 inches long...! How big are the bottles? :-) Anders

Of course.

My article - titled "The Cork Disaster" and to be published in "VINARIA"

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- is available. If somebody wishes, I can mail i, but that would only make sense if one has a basic knowledge of German (or willing to work through it via babelfish).

Five percent? Nope. A sommelier friend of mine, Adolf Schmid, head wine waiter (Chefsommelier) in Vienna's best eatery, Steirereck (), has been doing statistics for years now: a solid ten percent. The last link I gave here reported 8 percent.

He's absolutely right. 30 to 40 percent of all cork stoppered wines "do not taste like they should", as another friend of mine, Franz Noitz, an importer and wine-merchant (with an extremely sensitive nose to faults) puts it.

M.

Synthetic corks lose their sealing ability within 12 to 24 months after bottling. From that time on, the wines age prematurely and at an increasing pace. From the whites I open after three years,

80 and more percent are alreday noticeably oxidized.

Btw, I don't see any "romance" in cork stoppers. It's all about the wine performing well in the glass - and nothing about anything else.

After all - it's only a closure!

M.

Of course.

My article - titled "The Cork Disaster" and to be published in "VINARIA"

formatting link
- is available. If somebody wishes, I can mail it, but that would only make sense if one has a basic knowledge of German (or willing to work through it via babelfish).

Five percent? Nope. A sommelier friend of mine, Adolf Schmid, head wine waiter (Chefsommelier) in Vienna's best eatery, Steirereck (), has been doing statistics for years now: a solid ten percent. The last link I gave here reported 8 percent.

He's absolutely right. 30 to 40 percent of all cork stoppered wines "do not taste like they should", as another friend of mine, Franz Noitz, an importer and wine-merchant (with an extremely sensitive nose to faults) puts it.

M.

Synthetic corks lose their gas tightness within 12 to 24 months from bottling. From that time on, the wines age prematurely and at an increasing pace. From the whites I open after three years,

80 and more percent are alreday noticeably oxidized.

Btw, I don't see any "romance" in cork stoppers. It's all about the wine performing well in the glass - and nothing about anything else.

After all - it's only a closure!

M.

Michael, I'd like to read it. My German was learned in High School many years ago. It was never very good and it's very rusty now, but I'm willing to give it a try.

Could you send it, please, to snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com. Thanks very much.

That's not going to be much of a consolation to the thousands of people who depend on producing wine corks as an explanation of why they're going to be out of a job. It's a important industrial sector in Portugal and its demise would damage the country's economy.

The OP suggested a Teflon element in the new caps.

Second, the

If the average failure rate is 8%, then it's quite possible that occasionally a tasting might result in a rate this high, but you must have been particularly unfortunate with that sample.

You might be fed up but you can always afford another bottle of wine. I still think that given the vast economic mismatches between the cork producers and ourselves, that we should learn to live with an 8% failure rate and pressure the industry into improving cork rather than abandoning it. .

Well, it's worth a try!

Of course even higher grade cork is going to taint the odd wine. I just think the suggestion to abandon cork altogether is disproportionate to the incovenience it causes.

Wine closures are not the only use for cork, and no attempt to replace the cork will involve 100% of wine bottles.

Should we also buy lead-tainted candy from Mexico because they need the income? IMO, this is a straw man of the worst sort. I agree with Michael 100% that no other industry would tolerate the failure rate that wine consumers are asked to put up with. Even the industry policy of refunding the purchase price of TCA-tainted bottles is inadequate because of the time lag involved with bottles that need cellar aging. In the case of Michael's 1961 Gruaud-Larose, are you seriously suggesting that he go to the auction market to pay in excess of 200 Euros to replace his defective bottle (even if he could find it)? In the end, let the consumers make the choice and let the cork industry respond to whatever economic pressures are placed on them.

Mark Lipton

The best seal of all likely is a gold gasket. That is what is used to seal ultra-high vacuum equipment. However, even given the now extreme price of some top wines, gold is still a bit expensive to seal a wine bottle. Teflon may also, like gold, be an overkill. However so much work has been done on this plastic, that it is nearly certain that it could properly seal a wine for up to hundreds of years. Teflon has been long used and is very safe and non toxic for contact with foods and has been so approved. In fact many of you are drinking water that comes in contact wth Teflon. Teflon tape now is often used to seal the threads in plastic cold and hot water pipes that now serve most homes. Of course there are still a few homes served by pipes of the very natural material lead, and also a pipe cement containing lead oxide often was used before Teflon tape became common. A high quality screw seal with a Teflon insert for the seal probably would be best made of stainless steel that will withstand extremely long storage under damp conditions. Aluminum is much more reactive. The cap should be strong to avoid distortion by blows that can break the seal in soft, thin metal screw caps. Also the cap must be tightened to a sufficent pressure to hold the Teflon seal very tightly against the glass. Again we are talking about the tiny portion of fine wines that can be aged for many decades. The amount of Teflon waste from these would be insignificant compared to the huge amount now used for pipe seals, non-stick pans, and such.

There is one condition under which Teflon can be harmful. Although it can withstand extremely high temperatures, it will decompose at a high enough temperature - such as if you place a Teflon coated pan on a stove burner on high and leave it there a long time. This usually causes no problems for humans. However certain birds, such as Amazon parrots, can not tolerate the decomposition products produced by overheated Teflon and rapidly die before you can get them to a vet. A bird's respiration system is greatly different from that of a human, and there are many things that some birds can not tolerate that are no problem to humans, dogs, and cats. I use some Teflon coated equipment, but not saute pans, in case I forget and leave one on a heated burner. My 22 year old Amazon Green Cheek parrot never is sick, still is playful, and has no problems.He has been drinking water from pipes sealed with Teflon tape and has been around Teflon equipment that is not used on the stove top all of his life.

I see no need to support outmoded technology. At one time, a local company used a large number of key punch operators to punch computer cards. These people were out of a job when punched cards were no longer needed. People who lose their job have to retrain to do something else. Many companies or the various governments will pay for this, as it is much better for all concerned not to have many people receiving unemployment pay at taxpayer expense. I do know a bit about forests, since my father left me some forest land in another state that has been in the family for over 100 years. It produces mainly yellow pine, which is widely used for lumber, electric poles, etc. There are also at least

6 kinds of oaks on the property - red oak, whte oak, pin oak, black oak, etc. Oaks are tolerated to a small extent, but the pine is encouraged because it has the best market value. Should a certain kind of oak come in high demand, the forest could be slowly converted to produce more of that species. In the area where the forest is, more land now is in forest than in the early last century. In the early last century much cotton was grown in the area, but other areas now are better suited for cotton. Thus much of the former land used for cotton now is planted with trees. Besides producing lumber and paper pulp for over 100 years, my forrest land is the home of many animals - wild turkeys, deer, rabbits, a wolf or two, many bird species, the same as it was 100 years ago. The cork oak forests may have to be slowly coverted to some other species of oak or other tree. At one time cork was widely used as insullation. However much of this cork is now replaced by a wide variety of other materials. Wine corks are just one of many uses of cork.

My mailbox is always full to avoid spam. To contact me, erase snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net from my email address. Then add snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com . I do not check this box every day, so post if you need a quick response.

And received here, thanks very much.

Teflon is certainly unreactive enough, but it might be too plastic to keep a tight seal. For instance, the teflon tips to the plungers of Gastight syringes that we use will deform enough if the plunger is stored in the barrel to abrograte the seal of the syringe (that seal is quickly restored by banging the plunger tip on a countertop several times -- very plastic indeed). That happens over the course of a few days, so a Teflon-lined cap would surely deform and possibly lose its seal during the time needed to age wine.

Mark Lipton

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