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I liked this sentence: Traditional wines at their best can capture the south of France in a bottle, but poor versions can also remind you of why the Languedoc was ignored for so long. The best modern wines can epitomize the wind, sun and herbs of the Languedoc, but the bad ones are soulless assembly-line constructions.
The sad thing for me is my perennial QPR fave the Oupia Les Hérétiques was declared "best value", so I expect the 2005 to go up a few dollars. :(