Red Bourgogne - words of warning ...

Oct 05, 2004 4 Replies

Hello; Hail, hail the gang´s all here - or were, last Saturday - the AAB gang, that is. Meeting place was our house, theme red Bourgs. Bring what you like. Claes and Inga-Lisa take the hors d´oeuvres, we do the main course, etc. We welcomed our guests with the first mistake - Kir made from Creme de Mûres, black berry liqueur and ALigoté (Drouhin). Tasted good but - laid out the tastebuds completely. Not good. Four reds were then poured, blindly, and chicken liver mousse was served (good one, at that). Here we were looking down into four almost identical glasses -maybe 2 and four were darker red? Maybe a hint of brick in number 4? So. Let´s compare our impressions of the nose of the various drinkables! One word - nothing. Noone feels _anything_. The glasses are olfactorically mute (sorry, but there is no appropriate word...). Here was mistake number two. None of the wines had been aerated, except for a short while in the glass. Only after a goodly while did shy aromas of leather, raspberries, strawberries, and cherries emanate, particulary from 2 and 4. Chicken liver devoured, enters the main dish. Mistake number three. I had had some sort of idea of keeping the tasting in a Bourgogne atmosphere, and so I made Boeuf Bourgignonne. I have never quite realised this but - that dish, with smooth silky red Burgs, is murder! They do not suit each other at all! Day after, while contemplating the catastrophe, we were in perfect agreement that a Cote du Rhone would have been a much better pairing with this admittedly delicious dish. We then tried to say soemthing appropriate about tastes, but, apart from a hesitant agreement that 2 and 4 were the best, loud praise completely failed to emanate for any of the wines. Kitty who is frank and fearless said that none of the wines did anything for her, and that this was the least interesting tasting we´ve had so far, and I have to agree ... after some discussion, for a comparison, a bottle of Errazuriz Estate Pinot Noir 2003 (from CHile) was opened and acclaimed the best bottle of the evening so far. To my mind, it was too jammy, to sweetish, and too short (nasty, sweetish and short, right?) but that is a matter of opinion. I then opened a further bottle, this one a Savigny-le-Beaune 1999 from Lucien Jacob, which was everything you´d hope of an entry level wine from that commune - exuberant of raspberries, slight whiff of autumn leaves, refreshing acidity and very acceptable length (SEK 65 at the producer in 2001), and this then dethroned the Chilean. So what had been in the 4 original glasses?



1 Santenay 1998 Chartron et Trebuchet. Possibly two mistakes rolled into one. Santenay is not known for very good wines, and C&T are mainly into whites so ...
2 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru "Les Rues de Chaux" 1999 Chicotot. Too young by far I´d say. Let it sleep in the cellar for several years.
3 La Vignée Pinot Noir 2001 Bouchard Père & Fils. Bouchard apparently makes some good wines but they sell their worst stuff to Sweden, since it is well known that Swedes will drink anything. This was not bad, just uninteresting. Treated better, and with some prior rest, it may have been better.
4 Pommard Chanlains 1er Cru Dom Bernard Delagrange. This could very well, with decent treatment, have been the star of the evening. It felt fairly closed, and with little hints of age for a wine 12 years old.

I will contemplate my mistakes (for they were mine, mostly) and redeem myself at the next AAB in our home. Meanwhile, read and take warning, good sirs and gentles all ...



Cheers



Nils Gustaf


"Nils Gustaf Lindgren" wrote in news:35D8d.105168$ snipped-for-privacy@newsc.telia.net:

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Fear not Nils, they send you the same stuff that they sell in the US

Salut/Hi Nils Gustaf Lindgren,

le/on Tue, 05 Oct 2004 20:02:07 GMT, tu disais/you said:-

I agree, the Burgundian Kir is not the world's best apéritif, but that's Sherry. Can you imagine the _french_ admitting that a "british" drink could be that? (Actually, Champagne isn't bad either). When I've been in burgundian homes it's (Kir) often been served well before a meal with gougères, and that calms it no end.

Naturally. You don't mean to say you were influenced by that nonsense that Scarpitti was talking?

Interesting. Because I did Boeuf bourguignon not so long ago, to go with a Chassagne-Montrachet Les Boudriottes 1990 by René Lamy and I thought the match was magic. I think a lot depends upon the Burgundy (and exactly how you cooked the beef). Volnay, for example, pairs much better with chicken or guinea fowl than beef, while A Clos St Jacques would murder it. What wine did you use for the Beef? You _must_ us a Pinot Noir et the least. I used a Bourgogne from a good grower (reasonable price though).

But even then, it's a very minor blend, not even a village wine, nor even "Bourgogne". I know I'm a bit snooty about Burgundies, but I'd have used this to cook the beef!

Perfectly possible that it was still closed in. Burgundy tends to be either made to age (I'm drinking '89s and '90s) or to be drunk young. The latter are often near dead by 10 y.o.

We too usually use a basic Bourgogne in this dish, and generally serve with a beefier village level wine (Nuits St George, Gevrey, etc). But I recently read an interesting opinion from David Rosengarten where he tried a variety of wines IN a classic beef bourguignon, and decided a CdR was better than a Burg!

Ian, I think the La Vignee is indeed the Bouchard Bourgogne. But even with the recent improvement in Bouchard's wines, the basic Bourgogne is not very atttractive except in the ripest vintages (I'd say the same re the Drouhin La Foret, despite Drouhin'sd position as maybe my favorite negociant for reds). For basic Bourgogne, I prefer those from good growers (Lafarge, Roumier, Groffier, Chevillon) to any negociant. Frankly I don't remember many under $10 US Burgs I've liked, even on a QPR standard.

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

"Ian Hoare" skrev i meddelandet news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

We hade squigglies made from grilled zucchini strips rolled around grilled sweet peppers, roasted almonds, and pretzels. Less massive than gougères, if I remember correctly. In retrospect, a bottle or two of Cremant de Bourgogne would have been a better choice. And, yes, sherry - seldom drink sherry, for some reason - prejudice, no doubt.

No. Normally I am very much into aerating wines (particularly Italians - the kind of Italians I buy improve no end by spending an hour or so in a wide carafe).

The reason I had a bottle of Errazuriz Pinot Noir was I used that for cooking the beef. Please don´t hit me for using an overseas PN for a French dish. BAck in 2003 Xina and self visited a nice bistro like resstaurant in Paris, impressive wine list, good food, service good in a jovial way, and, sorry, no, don´t remeber the name - anyway, we had jou de boeuf in a red wine sauce, very close to Boeuf Bourgignonne in tastes, and the waiter explicitly warned us away from the red Burgs as too 'light' in style (we had a CdR). OTOH, few restos, no matter how jovial, have 1990 Chassagne-Montrachet on the wine list. At a price I can afford.

Well, you see, each brings a bottle, on a general theme. In our other tasting groups, this works very well, cf the Commando Mickey Mouse, or the French Shelf - but in this group, people are a bit more ... laid-back. At times. So this bottle was brought by one of the couples, and presented as "the only red Burg (he) could find in the Systembolaget".

I have no reason other than to believe you - I went to a tasting of old Burgs this spring where the _youngest_ offering was a 1973. And it was incredibly young and fresh. However, we were made to taste (at the producer) a 1989 Savigny-le-Beaune in 2001, "just to show that it still is drinkable" and, well, it was drinkable ... so is water ...

Your points are, in sum, well taken. I have learned a thing or two from this tasting.

Cheers

Nils Gustaf

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