Terrior & Marlborough Sauvignon (Long)

I missed the opportunity to comment when the subject was raised in a different thread within the past week or so, but I did want to make a couple of points.

Whether one wanted to use the French expression "terrior" when one considered the unique Sauvignons coming out of Marlborough is a moot point.

It is commonly accepted that no other wine region produces the pungent, assertive, brightly fruited SBs that New Zealand (in general) and Marlborough (in particular) turns out.

Consider this: the unique pungency associated with Marlborough Sauvignon comes from miniscule quantities of the compound *methoxypyrazine*, which is present (undesirable so!) in other varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon for one!

Marlborough has several very unique geological, meteorological and climatic assets which together make this one of the very few places which make this distinctive style, each contributing to the levels of methoxypyrazine (mpz - my abbreviation!) present.

When visiting several vineyard/wineries, Mark Lipton, Ian Hoare and I were told - "In Marlborough, SB grows like a weed!"

Generally, when we refer to Marlborough, we are talking about the Wairau Valley; where the river has meandered for hundreds of years, bring shingle (rocks) from the mountains, and depositing them on the plains, covered with a few cm of alluvial topsoil.

Three to four metres below the surface there is copious quantities of fresh water - after a few years the vines are "self irrigated"

Sauvignon Blanc is a vigorous vine that when left unchecked will produce a huge canopy of leaves and a prodigious crop. This exuberance equates to overtly vegetal wines that smell and taste of canned asparagus juice.

In Marlborough, growers use low-vigor rootstock and plant in well-draining, low-fertility, rocky alluvial soils to discourage rampant growth.

Growers remove much excessive leaf growth to allow optimum light levels and wind to flow through the vines.

You see, over-ripening will cause mpz levels to drop too low, thus producing wines lacking that aggressive pungency associated with the wines.

Another major factor is also the quite wide diurnal temperature range - maximums during the day seldom above 27/28 degr C - falling to 6/8 degr C at night.

Careful viticultural practices (leaf plucking) attention to detail to ensure picking is done just at the right time, and viola - making SB NZ style is easy stuff - crush, press, filter, ferment, add a little Semillon (some vineyards do!); perhaps a little in older oak (again, some do!) bottle and four months later more of the same.

So, would you call this "terrior" - the uniqueness of a region with low soil fertility but lots of natural water; generally cool climate, tempered by regular sea breezes and "cold" nights?

I think so.

Reply to
st.helier
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Definitely "terroir".

Mike

Mike Tommasi, Six Fours, France email link

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Reply to
Mike Tommasi

Certainly terroir to me! Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Reply to
Dale Williams

I've experienced the "aggressive pungency" you describe in Sauvignon Blanc from other areas as well - notably Sonoma County and Sancerre - lhe latter of which sparked the thread you referred to.

My understanding is that in Marlborough (and maybe the other loci as well) a portion of the fruit is harvested early, while the grassy/cat pee aromatics are strong. The remainder is harvested at full maturity and blended into the early crop to bring up the alcohol and body of the wine. Cold tank fermentation is the norm, which preserves the fruit better than barrel fermentation.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

What a great post. A word that I have always used with reference to NZ SBs is powerful. Aggressive pungency is exact. Seems to me that I have also read that the vines get a tremendous number of days of sunlight also. They are what Sancerres were 30 years ago. There are a few wines produced from the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma County that also develop this pungency.

Reply to
Bill

Hi Tom, yes, I have no doubts in that respect.

Now that Marlborough is recognised as "the benchmark", there is an increasing number of northern hemisphere winemakers traveling to these shores to "learn the secrets of success" of Marlborough.

The truth is "terrior"!!!

With the greatest of respect, this may be how things are being done in Sonoma and other "uncool" climates to try and replicate the Marlborough style, but I can categorically state that this simply not the case in Marlborough.

Grapes are ripened to optimum and then are picked - by far the greater % machine harvested.

Of course, individual vineyards (and site within vineyards) will ripen at differing rates and be harvested at different times, but the distinctive qualities are NOT the result of "manipulation"

100% correct - but some winemakers, whilst not fermenting in oak, will give a couple of months in older barrels to give a little complexity.

As far as Sancerre is concerned, French growers and winemakers are not taking the success of Marlborough (and their corresponding diminishing of popularity) laying down.

Of course, they too are changing their methods and winemaking techniques to come up with their version of the Marlborough style.

One producer introduced their "Kiwi Cuvee" - whilst many other French winemakers have done a sojourn in NZ to "further their education"

Generally, local vintners agree that "Imitation is the finest form of flattery"

Regards

st.helier

Reply to
st.helier

Sounds like a mistake to me. Why mess with a good thing (Sancerre)?

I'm sure that the NZ winemakers would agree with that, but frankly I wouldn't _want_ Sancerre to taste like NZSB. I'd prefer that it taste like what it _is_! If I want NZSB, I'll go buy _that_.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

OK, I'm confused. Is the word, "terrior", or, "terroir"? Just like to know how I _should_ be spelling it.

Regards,

- Roy

=*=*Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest. - Mark Twain The truth is rarely pure, and never simple. - Oscar Wilde

Reply to
Roy

The word is "terroir". Pronounce it like "te-roar". "Terrior" seems to be some kind of warrior, but rather on the terrorist side.

Martin

Reply to
Martin Schulz

Or a rather noisy small dog......

Reply to
Bill Spohn

hohum :-)

Reply to
John Taverner

Thanks for the very educational post!

But wasn't Methoxypyrazine that little leprechan type guy in Bizzaro Superman! :-)

Myron

Reply to
Young Martle

Not quite. That was Mr. Mxyztplk.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

"Tom S" wrote in news:%QAkc.5$n31.4@dfw- service2.ext.ray.com:

Aw. I always thought it was Mxyzptlk.

d:D "Doesn't he work for Randall Grahm?"

Reply to
enoavidh

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