Three Special Cheeses & Wine

I found a store that imports Neal's Yard Dairy cheeses to the US and airmails them across the country. I just received Neal's English Farmhouse Cheddar and Colston Basset Stilton. Also I received an old fashioned Boerenkaas Farmhouse Gouda. I tried these with some Heitz Martha's Vineyard 1976 Cabernet Sauvignon.

The wine is still holding well. I believe I reported on it last year. It is a very intense, dark, and complex wine full of cassis and that trademark minty quality that screams Napa. There is still tannin, but it is under control.

The mentioned cheddar was very rich and complex with some tang. It is as good, or better, than other cheddars I have tasted. It went well with the wine. It also would have gone well with a somewhat less intense wine. The Stilton was far superior to what we usually get in the US. It had considerable bite from the blue mold, but not excessive. It was very rich and creamy with a nutty character. The huge Cabernet could stand up to it, although a good tawny Port might have been a better match. This Stilton might overpower a less intense Cabernet or Bordeaux. The Farmhouse Gouda made the usual Goudas we get seem like paste on comparison. It was far richer, more nutty, and more complex than any other Gouda I have seen. It stood up well to the powerful Cabernet, but would have also been good with a consideraby less powerful wine.

I am not a big fan of cheese and wine combinations. However I must say this match was interesting. I can remember too many wine and cheese events in the past that usually included one or two cheeses that made the whole room stink and that should have been buried several weeks earlier. Such cheeses might even overpower the strongest Stout.

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Reply to
Cwdjrx _
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Sounded wonderful! Please share the name of this resource with us.

Glad the '76 Martha's finally came around. For a long time it was far too tannic to be really enjoyable. I'll bet the '76 BV GdL is still excellent too. Another '76 that was a huge surprise to me was the Pedroncelli Reserve Cabernet. I'm not a big fan of Sonoma Cabernet, but that was a really nice wine, and really inexpensive.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

Tom S commented: "Sounded wonderful! Please share the name of this resource with us."

Go to

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. Zingerman's is a well known deli in Ann Arbor, Michigan. They also have a 4-year aged Vermont cheddar that is very good. They have been out of stock of Neal's Yard cheeses at times lately. If they are out of stock, check back every day and order at once when they are available again.

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Reply to
Cwdjrx _

Excellent.

As a matter of fact I have done a fair bit of experimenting, with friends we have developed what we call a taste workshop (we do this for Slwo Food) on english cheese and french wine. Neal's yard provides us with Colton Bassett Stilton, Montgomery or Keen Cheddar, and Tymsboro, a chevre that is most wonderful...

All pairings are done with white wines.

If you drop all preconceived notions about cheese matching, you may conclude, as we did, that red wine makes a good match about 10% of the time, white being far superior in 80% of cases, and the remaining 10% is only pairable with beer. Actually, beer goes with many cheeses, and can replace the white wine, I suspect 50% of the time...

Think of the classic combination, a cheese platter full of creamy fat normandy cheeses served with a top flight red. Disgusting. The tannin meets the fat and creates havoc in your mouth, an unpleasant bitter greasy feeling that is enough to make you flip your cookies, and there is not enough acidity to match this fat. Even worse with green cheeses or hard cheeses like cheddar, the salt has nowhere to go, but now make your white wine a botrytis wine, with tons of acidity to accompany the sugar and extreme complexity, and you have a match that makes port seem outrageously out of place and banyuls just a mundane match, not complementing either cheese or wine.

The latest match was :

Tymsboro (goat) - Mas Jullien blanc 2001

Keen's Cheddar (raw milk) - Sauternes Cru Barrejats 1996

Colton Bassett Stilton - Coteaux du Layon, Grains Nobles 1999, Domaine Patrick Baudouin

Mike

Reply to
Mike Tommasi

snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Cwdjrx _) wrote

Are you a big fan of cheese?

Forgive me, but with cheese, it's about cheese, or in France, it's about the bread, wine, and cheese. Lousy bread is to cheese worse than a Dixie cup is to fine wine. Crackers are heresy. None of the cheeses mentioned are outstanding, although the C-B is good.

Cheese is weird. I only like certain cheeses. I don't like Brie, or any bloomy-rind cheeses...except maybe real Camembert. Loire chevre is my favorite, particularly Selles-sur-Cher, plus Valencay and Pouligny-Saint-Pierre...keys to heaven, indeed. I can't imagine even the stinkiest goat overpowering a wine. Then there's hard mountain cheese, like Beaufort...and other Savoie cheeses like Reblochon. Did I mention Roquefort? Maybe the best cheese in the world. Washed rind cheeses, I think, are as foul as you described, and oh so good. Livarot is really spectacular, I think. Then there are others. Hmm...I think I need to order some cheese. From France, naturally.

John

Reply to
J Derby

None of the cheese mentioned are outstanding? Did you taste them? I cannot speak for the Goudsekaas, but the two english cheeses are absolutely wonderful and comparable to the best of France. French audiences are known to have gone ape over them.

As for bread, who needs it? As it is is, it is well nigh impossible to find decent bread here in France...

About the Tymsboro I mentioned, a frenchman described it as more or less like a Valencay, except the Tymsboro tastes good.

Oh yes, OMHO goat's cheese almost ALWAYS ruins a red wine. And you better have a very structured white or a white with some nice oxidation, or it too will perish

Well, I will not argue there, maybe reblochon is a bit dull, but all the others, I agree.

Cheers

Mike

Reply to
Mike Tommasi

In general, I prefer Dutch cheeses. Of course Parmigiano Reggiano is superb too, as are Stilton, Roquefort, Maytag etc. - but I would _really_ like to find the elusive Bernerkase, which I haven't seen in 20+ years. Appenzeller is similar, but not quite the same...

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

Mike Tommasi wrote

The C-B is good. Not close in comparison with the heavy hitters in France, however. It's integrity, maybe, but the invention itself(Stilton), no. Some would argue, but then again, some would argue in favor of Cali wines over the rest of the world, and some would argue that the Ford Focus is aesthetically on par with the BMW

540i.

Anyone eating a soft (or IMO a complex) cheese. I like mountain cheeses straight. Did I mention Beaufort?

Wow! You should try Utah. White, or wheat-colored white sponge bread. No crust.

So, it's like the Pouligny, but not as tasty? In truth, I must grant that ripe goat from anywhere (have you tried Coach Farms out of NY? Good stuff) beats even my darling (S-s-C) in its shameful fresh stage.

Loire goat paired with red? Peanut butter almost ALWAYS ruins a good hamburger, too. What about Loire reds? Some of them work, but you're right, it's tough. The operative word should be ALMOST not always. Oh, uh, IMHO. Yeah, that's it. This whole "pair up with a '61 Bordeaux and blame it on the food if it doesn't work" thing is rather silly. Not you, but many cheese haters are guilty of this gross misunderstanding. Pairing is serious business, an art, though, not a science.

Dull, yes, but when good is good. I've found Rebolochon to be best from smaller farms in Savoie. The subtleties are lost with the big producers, or perhaps in transit to the States. Here it's runny and flavorless, although I once received an acceptable version shipped from Murray's in NY.

John

Reply to
J Derby

Salut/Hi Mike Tommasi,

le/on Fri, 21 Nov 2003 07:32:15 +0100, tu disais/you said:-

I think in the case of the Stilton, you're in a hard place Mike. I've no objection to the marriage between Stilton and the sweet wines you produce, but you should be a touch more upfront about your parameters. The marriage Stilton/Port (and I do NOT limit it to Tawny, but would include a vintage port as well) knocks spots off the marriage witrh your sweet whites from France. They're good, I've tried 'em as you know, but Stilton/Port is sublime.

Sorry, I find a cheddar goes quite well against a not-too-tannic red. Not as well as against a sweet white I agree.

Again, I don't agree. In general Port goes extremely well with mature hard cheeses (Beaufort, Cheddar, Oude Gouda, Parmesan etc), - but so do many dry reds. Dry reds fall down, IMO, against the creamy, and semi soft cheeses.

Reply to
Ian Hoare

I just wanted to elaborate on the exact cheeses I had, as I may have been too brief in my description. The farmhouse cheddar from Neal's was either Montgomery's or Keen's. Zimmerman's just lists them both and sends you what Neal's has provided them at the time you order. The Neal's Colston Basset is labeled as such on the Neal's sticker that Zimmerman's attaches to the wrap covering the cheese. The mentioned aged farmhouse Gouda probably was not from Neal's Yard, since Zimmerman's does not mention Neal's in connection with it in their catalog, on their web site, or on the label attached to the wraper. Thus if Neal's in London has an old farmhouse Gouda, it could well be from someone other than the one I mentioned.

European cheeses are easy enough to find in the US, if they have a famous name. You can even find Roquefort, well known Swiss and Spanish cheeses, etc. at Wal-Mart superstores. However, such cheeses usually are at the lower end of the quality for their type, and may have been aged too little or too much. In many parts of the country you have to order top quality cheeses, even including US ones, from a few high quality cheese shops that will mail their cheeses. The cheese often is sent by

2-day air in foam boxes with an ice pack to keep the cheese cool - especially in the summer.
Reply to
Cwdjrx _

Hi Ian

De gustibus... I find the combination works on one level, but the port does not gain anything from the match, the cheese does.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Tommasi

How about Clemson Blue.

Appenzeller

Reply to
dick

Salut/Hi Cwdjrx,

le/on Fri, 21 Nov 2003 19:29:05 -0600 (CST), tu disais/you said:-

Thanks. I was making a sort of composite reply on the basis of your original post and various replies.

They are both wonderful cheeses and interestingly different. I have to state a passion for Cheddar. It was almost my daily eating in the UK, and is still my favourite of all cheeses (as long as it's not young or of poor quality). Along with bacon it's almost the only thing I _really_ miss from the UK. Whenever I go back I get some and I regularly ask visitors from the UK to bring it. I've had - as you can imagine - a pretty impressive array of them over my lifetime.

So when I went to the Salone de Gusto (slow food in Turin) and saw a stand with three British farmhouse cheddars from Somerset, you can imagine that I made a beeline for them. I tasted all three (I don't have my notes) but two of them certainly were Montgomery's and Keens, the first time I'd tasted either, to my knowledge, and I remember thinking as I tasted them, what wonderful examples they were. Subsequently, I was lucky enough to meet Jamie Montgomery and Randolph Hodgson (Neal's Yard) and found out more about the cheeses and Neal's approach to them. I remember very clearly that at the time I was surprised how very different the three cheeses were, especially considering they were all very clearly cheddar and all top class. But if you consider how different Lynch-Bages, Latour and Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste can be in the same year, even if all from the same commune, I suppose I shouldn't be surprised.

Ah, thanks for that clarification. I don't think I paid proper attention to what you said.

And if you're prepared to pay the price, I imagine. Montgomery's is expensive even in the UK.

Interesting. Here in France (or at least in my part of it) supermarkets don't have _any_ Spanish cheeses, a couple of mass produced Italian cheeses, far too many of the least interesting Dutch cheeses, no British, Swiss, or anything else, and a staggering array of French cheeses, but usually of VERY mediocre quality. However that varies from Supermarket to Supermarket, and a couple of the local ones have staff on the cheese counter who love cheese and know their business and evidently have enough of a free hand for it to count. So we can get good to very good examples of maybe twenty or thirty of them.

including US ones, from a few high

Ah.. we're nowhere near as benighted as that here, but then we're much smaller.

Reply to
Ian Hoare

Not answering any one post: I'll join the chorus who think the C-B Stilton is excellent. I won't say that a great Stilton is better or worse than a great Roquefort, they are both sublime in their own way. I'm in the Porto and Stilton camp. The best Cheddars I've ever had came from Neal's Yard (via Fairway in NYC). A good aged (4 or 5 year) Gouda is nutty, almost sweet, and one of the most forgiving cheeses for matching with red wine. Though I'm on record as liking Epoisses and red Burgundy, in general I find whites do better (or often, just less badly) with any cheese on the stinky or runny end of the spectrum. My favorite red matches tend to be harder cheeses.

Dale

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Reply to
Dale Williams

As a limey I'm interested to know what is the consistency of your cheddar? Does it come off the knife in slices, does it crimble to flakes or is it somehwere in between?

A limey wine & cheese lover.

Reply to
Mr B

Salut/Hi Mr B,

le/on Sun, 23 Nov 2003 19:30:55 -0000, tu disais/you said:-

Go to Borough Market near London Bridge, find Neal's Yard and buy a chunk of Montgomery's best cheddar.

Its texture is as good as its flavour, very slightly crumbly.

Reply to
Ian Hoare

That is my choice, but they also have it in Covent Garden, where visitors are more likely to go...

Mike

Reply to
Mike Tommasi

Reply to
dick

Dick, This puts me in mind of a serious question: who, if any, are the high quality, artisanal producers of cheese in Wisconsin? While I know quite a bit about the comparable producers in California, New York, Iowa and, yea, even Indiana, I know nothing about whatever cheese Renaissance may be underway in that great dairyland to the North. Any info for me?

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

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