I don't post many tasting notes these days, but I am inspired to do so today due to the remarkable nature of the title wine. This was the third of three bottles that I purchased upon release. At the time, $40 a bottle for a St Joseph sounded expensive; nowadays, $40/bottle for Gonon would be a steal (and immediately make me suspect shenanigans).
The previously opened bottles showed promise and development, but last night's bottle was hitting on all cylinders and damn near perfect for my tastes. It was opened at cellar temperature, which these days is down around 55F, and immediately the nose transported me. It had a pronounced "animale" quality, distinctly different from the barnyard character one can get from Brett infections, and pretty much absent in earlier encounters. There was also the tell-tale green olive note and Jean was picking up some licorice. It is fair to say that I haven't smelled a nose like that on Syrah since the late Lou Kessler opened a bottle of
1986 Noel Verset Cornas at a dinner in Berkeley in 2005.On the palate, it was medium-bodied with silky tannins and lush red-berry fruit. The acidity was just what one would expect and it was a marvelous foil for rack of lamb with sauteed shiitakes and shallots and baby bok choy in a garlic-black pepper sauce. Jean and I both could not stop smelling and drinking this wine.
Alas, that bottle also exhausted my supply of Gonon St. Joseph. No more are likely owing to the collector-driven price escalation reminiscent of Gentaz, Chave, Verset and Allemand, all now well out of our reach. I told Jean the story of the Gonon St J VV bottling and now she wants to get one :o.
Mark Lipton