[TN] Jean returns home (Barbadillo Manzanilla, Clape Cornas)

Jean arrived back from New Jersey last night after spending two weeks
with her niece, who was (against all advice to the contrary) giving
birth. To celebrate this most welcome event, tonight I roasted a rack of
venison that Jean had earlier ordered from D'Artagnan and grilled some
asparagus from our CSA. We started the evening with a 375 ml bottle of
2012 Barbadillo Manzanilla en Rama Saca de Otoño which we had with
(appropriately enough) anchovy-stuffed manzanilla olives and a raw milk
manchego. The wine was dry, with slightly nutty notes and a saline
character, but was initially marred by a green streak. With air, the
green notes dissipated and the wine took on a rounder character. Jean,
who has always been skeptical of dry Sherry, fell in love with the wine
after it had seen some air.
With the main course of venison, I opened an orphaned bottle found in
the cellar: 1995 Clape Cornas, which had a strong green olive nose when
initially opened, but which in time took on a more standard character of
dark, berryish fruit, stones, smoke and licorice. It was not
particularly sauvage or animale for Cornas, which I think lies at the
heart of the Clape-Verset comparisons. It had plenty of acidity and
fine-grained tannins to make it quite food-friendly, and it was a treat
with the venison (venison and Syrah being one of my classic food pairings).
Reply to
Mark Lipton
1995 Clape Cornas
Clape Cornas and Jaboulet Thalabert Crozes were my go-to N. Rhones. I drank a bunch. In retrospect probably drank them all too young!
Thanks for note.
Reply to
1995 > Clape Cornas
Yeah, it's hard not to do, Dale. Even those "minor" N Rhone Syrahs are damn near immortal AFAICT. I've had 20 year old Verset Cornas that was not only alive but sensational. Who knows how long Hermitage can age for? My guess would 50 years in a good vintage. The real problem is that they become so much more appealing as they reach old age, which is when the nose really develops and they become less rugged. If I'd been willing to give this wine another 5 years, I'd bet I'd have liked it even more.
Mark Lipton
Reply to
Mark Lipton
1995 > > Clape Cornas
Couldn't agree more. I have a number of bottles from the late 80's early 90's that are not nearly close to maturity and really show very little age.
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