TN: 1995 St Emilion

I'm glad you have found the pleasures of duck and Saint-Emilion - I normally get given everything except the quack when I go.

When you say the Corbin Michotte was "lighter styled", may I ask with what you are comparing it? Maybe the answer is in your use of "styled". If you are comparing with "Parkerised" wines I would agree, but when compared with its peers - traditionally made Saint-Emilions - I must say that I have never found it amongst the lighter wines - rather the reverse as befits its heritage as part of an estate once held by the Black Prince!

Tim Hartley

Tim, I was just comparing it within the realms of St-E's that I typically taste, which is for the most part Grand Cru Classes (and at least 50% probably 1erGCC).. Unlike the UK, there's not a strong tradition in US of drinking regular St. Emilion Grand Cru (or even less a straight St- Emilion, which we virtually never see). What few non-classed St. Em GC we see seem to usually be chosen for how cheap the importer can get them, rather than any intrinsic worth. I found the Corbin-Michotte lighter than other '95s I've had in last few years, but those (Angelus, Figeac, Soutard) aren't neccessarily representative.

As to style, I actually don't think of Corbin-Michotte (based only on '95, '98, '99) as especially traditional, rather as one of the mid- moderns. That's not based on any knowledge of vineyard or cellar practices, just my impression from tasting.

Thinking about this, here's my rough division of St Emilions. Admittedly based on small samples in some cases.

Very traditional: Soutard Figeac Magdelaine L'Arrossee

Fairly Traditional Cheval Blanc Corbin Beausejour-Becot La Gaffeliere Canon

Middle of the Road Angelus Pavie-Maquin Corbin-Michotte Canon-la-Gaffeliere Trottevieille

Modern Barde-Haut Grand Corbin Despagne Faugeres Beausejour-Duffau Troplong Mondot Quinault l'enclos Ausone (solely based on one taste of the '98, not in my normal budget)

Super-Modern Pavie Pavie-Decesse Monbousquet Peby Faugeres

Thanks for thoughtful reply.

It's interesting how different people's perceptions of wine can be - it is a very subjective thing. I would not have put Corbin Michotte in the same bracket as the other four you mention, nor Ausone or Grand Corbin Despagne in that bracket. Compared with some of the Grand Crus Classes from the Cotes or the southern part of the plateau - for example Fonplegade (at least under Moueix) I woud dtill no say it is light. I do not find any of them so "modern" in style as you do, if by modern you mean tending to maximum extraction and emphasis on fruit above all else. Equally I would have put Quinault l'Enclos in your final bracket. It may be because of our different expectations that you found the Corbin Michotte "light" whereas I find depth and complexity. On a more general point I note your comments about Grand Cru Saint-Emilion not finding its way to the US in general. That's a pity bwcause there's some very good stuff among them but it is interesting that those you mention that do find their way to you are all ones in your "modern" or "super modern" lists - Monbousquet (you cannot yet have had the promoted wine!, Pavie-Decesse, Faugeres and its special cuve brother Peby Faugeres, Quinault l'Enclos,and Barde-Haut - L'Arrossee being the exception.

Tim Hartley

Monbousquet

We can get this in Charlotte...at Costco no less.

Tim,

Thanks for another thoughtful response.

First of all, you apparently think I used "light" as a perjorative. I don't find lighter body and depth/complexity mutually exclusive. :) I liked this wine, and my top all-time St Emilion experiences include Figeacs and Magdelaines from moderate vintages that I wouldn't characterize as big or full. Magdelaine is almost always "lighter- styled" in my view, yet in no way lacking in either depth or complexity.

As I said, these divisions are a bit off the cuff, and in some cases based on small samples. Funnily I moved the Quinault from supermodern to modern as I was doing, could easily have left it where it was. The Ausone was based on one sample, but the wine since Rolland arrived seems quite different from the austere Ausone of the past.

What constitutes modernism? I'd agree with fruit-emphasis and high extraction, and add more apparent oak (whether by higher % of new or toast) and "tannin management." Lots of factors affect this, use of reverse osmosis, spinning cones, picking grapes at extremes of ripeness, etc.

I'm not an idealogue for either side of the modernity debate (at least in Bordeaux). My fave 1995 St. Emilion has been the Angelus, but I happily own Soutard and Magdelaine, and enjoyed the modern Troplong- Mondot. CT tells me these are the St Emilions I own, in rough descending order of quantity:

Pavie-Macquin Magdelaine Soutard Barde-Haut Grand Corbin Despagne Cheval Blanc (and Petit) Corbin Beausejour-Duffau Pavie-Decesse Figeac du Cauze Clos d'Oratoire La Confession La Gaffeliere La Tour Figeac Martinet Monbousquet Beausejour-Becot Faugeres Troplong Mondot Rocher Bellevue Figeac Vieux Fortin

I like both styles, I'm just more likely to drink the Monbousquet or La Confession young with a steak, and the Figeac or Magdelaine with more age with roast chicken. I don't like Pavie/Pavie Decesse/Le Dome in the ripest vintages, where the sur-maturite overwhelms me.

Yet another example of two countries divided by a single language. Yes, I had assumed it to be somewhat damning!

I think we are agreed on that

And on that

I must say I prefer the more traditional styles — but agree that the

Plenty of good wine there to be going on with! — and some good Grand Crus amongst them whch seem to have found their way across to the watery West. Happy drinking — do you ever get over to Saint-Emilion? Did you know that there is a Chancellery of the Jurade in Texas (as well as many chapters of the Commanderie de Bordeaux)? The published name and address of the Chancellor is Denis Swift, Box