TN: Franciacorta, Rueda, St. Emilion

Betsy's piano trio is spending this week in town rehearsing for some Jan/Feb concerts in NC, and we decided to have a dinner. We also invited some other musicians who were kind enough to offer hospitality (rehearsal space with piano, etc.). Things got a little frantic as we got ready (I was late from work, a guest needed to be driven to pick up a rental, etc.), but with her usual grace Betsy pulled off a good dinner.

With appetizers of gravlax, antipasta, and more, the NV Cavalleri Brut (Franciacorta). I wasn't especially impressed with this at $15, but when I saw on sale for $10 I got more. I would have described this as "extra dry" a la White Star rather than Brut, there was a distinct edge of sweetness. Ripe apple fruit, a biscuity note, good acidity. B

One guest showed up without her husband, he was home sick. I was a little disappointed as I had chosen dinner wines with him in mind. Then another guest got a phone call from his wife, and had to leave for a family emergency. Our party of 11 was down to 8. I told everyone else they were doomed to stay till the end- no more deserters!

As we segued into dinner with an asparagus salad with miso dressing, we switched to a Rueda, the 2002 Naia. Flowery/herbal nose with lots of tropical fruit, on the palate the tropical fruit takes on a citrus edge. B/B+, good value ($7)

The missing jazz drummer had stated his preference for chocolatey Cabs, so I had thought I'd serve him a chocolate-y Merlot and a Cab. Even though he wasn't here, bottles were open. First on deck with the main course (chicken, one guest didn't eat red meat, so it was more of a "make-do" than perfect match) was a Cabernet Sauvignon, the 1997 Clos Du Val (Napa). Nose of mint and vanilla, medium-bodied with blackberry and cassis fruit. Moderate sweet oak, good fruit, soft without being flabby. Tastes fully mature. B/B+

Next I passed the 1997 Barde-Haut (St. Emilion). Barbara (definitely not a geek, but who likes wine) who was sitting next to me immediately started oohing and aahing, and said "it's like chocolate". This wine has gotten more chocolate comments each time I've served than any other I remember (why I was opening). Framboise and plum fruit, toasty oak, lush finish. Good modern-styled wine. This is not one of your dilute/green '97s. B+/A-

The violinist's husband had brought a bottle of the NV Fonseca Bin 27, which we served amidst the cheese and dessert. This also had a hint of chocolate, along with some red fruit and spice. Sweet, pleasant, a pretty good example of what NV port can be like. B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre at best. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.

Dale

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