TN: 4 Years of Bliss, One Good Meal at Montrachet

Oct 15, 2005 15 Replies

OK, so maybe every moment of the 4 years hasn't been bliss. But the last 4 years have probably been the best of my life, and for our anniversary I took Betsy to Montrachet in Tribeca. A lunch there had figured in our courtship (though neither of us were conscious of it at the time), so this had sentimental value.



I met her in the city after her rehearsal, we drove down to Tribeca and then walked around in the mist for a while. Eventually we made it back to the restaurant, and settled in for quite a nice meal. A lunch visit a couple years ago had been slightly disappointing, but Thursday almost everything was quite good. Of course, a slow night (combination of Yom Kippur and rain) might have helped- restaurant had many empty tables, so we had very attentive service (and some bonuses from kitchen).



We had an amuse of risotto balls with parmesan. I started with sautéed langoustines with gingery pickled peaches, while Betsy ordered the seared foie gras. She actually got Foie Gras 4 ways - the seared foie gras with Muscat grapes, cold terrine of FG, poached FG with daikon and a fruit sauce, and a molten FG ball/truffle. For the main course I got duck choucroute- duck wrapped in cabbage with a daikon sauerkraut. Betsy's veal ended up being Veal 4 Ways- there was roast loin with a parmesan crust, sweetbreads, and a luscious hunk of cheek. There was another risotto ball (balls and daikon seemed to the evening's theme) - Betsy said it reminded her of a Burger King Tater Tot, in a good way. When I looked at her she insisted she likes BK tater tots. Go figure. Actually, the kitchen was very on, and everything was delicious, except for maybe the duck was a bit bland ( I guess it was maybe steamed in the cabbage? Both the cabbage and the daikon kraut were superb, it was just the duck that needed a bit more flavor).



I ordered a rather inexpensive wine, the 1998 Prager "Weissenkirchner Steinriegl" Riesling Federspiel (Wachau). I'm more concerned with wine matching than Betsy, and thought this would be versatile enough for the langoustines, the veal, and dry Riesling is my usual choice for choucroute. I consulted the sommelier and he agreed. I offered to get Betsy a glass of demi-sec something for the foie gras, but she declined (and said the Riesling went fine). I was worried re the age of this, as a Federspiel, but it had youthful bright fruit, though there were mature petrol notes also. The petrol, spices, and maybe some mineral notes dominated on the nose, but on the palate the lemony fruit took control. There seemed to be some peach notes too (at least with the peach accents on the langoustines). Nice acidity made it quite food friendly; there was a good clean lingering finish. All in all, quite a nice wine for $40 on a restaurant list. B+



I had cheese and Betsy an "avocado-lime vacherin" dessert. The cheese course included one soft sheepmilks cheese whose name I didn't get, a Camembert, a Pont L'Eveque, and a very good Mimolette (there can be such a thing). I thought the Mimolette would benefit from a red, and ordered a glass of the 2000 Ch. Clarke (Listrac). Ripe cassis and red plum fruit, not the most compelling 2000 Bdx Ive had recently. Some light earth and cedar notes, but mostly a fairly soft anonymous red. B-



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



I have totally lost the thread on this one. Is this in Japan?

No, Manhattan.

Mark Lipton

Dale, I assume that you've seen the article in the NYT regarding the "five who changed NY dining." I took Jean to Montrachet in '90 when we were visiting and had a great meal there (great wine list, too). I'm pleased to say that, of the five chefs cited, I've eaten at restaurants run by 3 of them (Meyer, Nieporent and Vongerichten). Glad to see that you had another good experience there.

Mark Lipton

I would have thought that by now senator Clinton had changed the name to "Womanhattan." ;-)

Godzilla

Excuse der foreign gentleman - but it should be Personhattan, withut a doubt.

Cheers

Nils Gustaf

Pretty good for someone who doesn't live around here! Just to be technical, neither Drew Nieporent nor Danny Meyers are chefs. I've still never eaten at a Bouley restaurant, but hope to soon. I have eaten at : Gotham under Portale Vong (Vongerichten) Montrachet, Nobu, the late Layla , though not Tribeca Grill (may do an offline there soon) (Nieporent) Union Square, Gramercy, 11 Mad, Tabla (Meyer) Living in region makes it easier.

Dale,

Congrats to you and Betsy on your aniversary.

Not with "son" in the middle!

It's DeNiro land. And the name of his film studio.

Isn't Tribeca's name something to do with Triboro?

I finally got to see Sideways last night. I didn't enjoy it nearly as much as I thought I would. Although Church slays me no matter what he is in.

Being a liker of but no expert on, was the wine trivia well researched and accurate?

mk5000

"I don't believe anyone for not believing my history. If I had not experienced what I have, I could not have believed it myself"--Joseph Smith

No. Tribeca stands for "triangle below Canal (Street)" Soho stands for "South of Houston (Street)". I think both names also take some of their cachet from other places - I think there's a Soho in England for example.

Triboro is the area (and bridge) that encompases Manhattan, Bronx, and Queens (three of the five boros of New York City, which is (nearly?) unique in being politically divided in boroughs, which are somewhat different from other kinds of divisions (but the difference escapes me). Rumor has it that this division, which occured hundreds of years ago, is actually illegal. I wouldn't be surprised.

Jose

Oh, DUH thanks

Incidentally, have you seen this week's Newsweek (with the Mormons on the cover), p 53 Lifestyles section.

First article is about marketing wine with cool labels. I have to admit that I tend to buy experimetnally the bottles that have brighter labels, but not necessarily weird names.

The second article is "The Day California Won First Prize"

mk5000

"You're so lucky Oh lucky lucky You're so lucky Yeah"--franz Ferdinand, do you want to

Yeah, I was having problems finding the right term for them: restaurateurs, I suppose is what I should have said.

No joke! Of the various one's I've tried, Montrachet and Union Sq. get my votes for the most interesting food (perhaps if I'd tried Vong in an earlier time it might have seemed more innovative, but then again the Asia-Europe cooking nexus had been done to death on the West Coast before Vong ever opened its doors).

Mark Lipton

Salut/Hi marika,

le/on 16 Oct 2005 21:50:25 -0700, tu disais/you said:-

Interesting! Might be quite useful in a country where meam living room temperatures are too hot for serving wine. What technology do they use to cool the labels.

It's no use to cryo-ver spilled wine... no use to cruover either.

You could actually do that, if you metallise the bottle by epositing Titanium Indium Oxide, and use some suitable other metal for the label, attach a battery and you get cooling by Pelletier effect.

;-)

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