I like quartinos

Jan 14, 2008 8 Replies

Friday I took Betsy to One in Irvington (my Christmas gifts had been mostly prosaic, so had included "coupon" for a dinner out),



We had: Amuse: foie gras and fig cream puffs



First course: I had a crab and avocado salad with a miso-ginger dressing, Betsy a great roasted onion soup with merguez and goat cheese croutons



Mains: I had glazed duck breasts over lentils with gogi berries (??), Betsy a rack of veal.



Dessert- she had a lemon curd tart



Betsy said she didn't want to have much wine, and I decided not to order a bottle. Instead, I took advantage of their quartino program. I very much like the idea of quartino (1/3 of a bottle). Lets one choose a red and a white and still not be drinking equivalent of a bottle, yet with each person getting a good pour. And since there are 3 pours per bottle, maybe less likely to run across oxidized wine. Pricing on the quartinos was from $10 to $15, and most of the bottles probably retail for about that. In other words, a bit better than BTG pricing in metro area. Wish more places used this approach.



We had:



2006 Seven Hills Riesling (Washington) Just off-dry, bright apple fruit, ok length, maybe could use just a tad more zip, but good for NW Riesling. B


2006 Babich Pinot Noir A bit thin and light. Pleasant cherry fruit, a little sharp, ok as a dinner wine, don't think I'd look to buy any. B-



Since she did drink her share, as she had dessert I had a glass of the Quinta do Noval Late Bottled Vintage (list said 1999, but I noticed later bill said 2000). Nicest wine of the night, pushing the sweetness edge, but with clean licorice and chocolate notes on top of tasty black plum fruit. B+



Good evening out, food was mostly very good (2 caveats: the glaze on duck would have been ok, but the sweetness of the berries in the lentils meant combo a bit much, plus Betsy felt the toasted meringue ond tart too sweet), the wine fine as a backdrop.



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency  


How does that work? Do you get a bottle that holds 1/3 of a bottle? Or do you simply buy by the glass, and they pour a third of a bottle into the glass?

My system (at home) is that I save half-bottles and quarter-bottles, and when I open a (full) bottle, I immediately fill a half-bottle and a quarter-bottle and cork it up and put it in the fridge. The rest is what I drink with the meal, so I get four glasses out of a bottle. It's a nice pour, but I often wish I had another couple of sips (but not another quarter bottle). Sounds like dividing into three would be real nice, if I could get quartino bottles.

Jose

Quartinos are typically served as small carafes (250 ml)

I have not frequently encountered these but do think that 50cl bottles are very sensible for a couple who want to drink two different wines with their dinner. In France it is now common, since the drop in the blood : alcohol limits to see people ordering a bottle and taking the unfinished wine home with them. Last summer we joined in and took a Vacuvin with us when we went to restaurants for lunch and I had to drive afterwards. It avoids being restricted to choosing from the half bottle list — which is nearly always more restricted, and much more expensive. I see no reason why one should not do the same in other countries as well, though I have not yet had the occasion to ask in the UK.

Tim Hartley

I have never seen quartines on the wine menu anywhere. Is this strictly NYC?

Well, I think it's a common size in vinotecas in Italy. In NYC it became popular when Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich starting using them in several of their places (Otto, Babbo, Esca, etc). Now lots of other NY places do it (especially Italian cuisine), but I saw a review of a Chicago place called Quartino. Unsure re rest of country.

A number of restaurants and wine bars in Columbus use the Quartino however I would be hard pressed to verify that they actually give customers 250ml of wine. It seems like more of a marketing ploy so they can wring $15.00 out of a slightly larger glass pour of $3.00 wine.

Brutal! I'm not moving to Ohio! :)

One uses the little carafes (a bit like beakers), it's pretty clear where 250 is. Makes for a nice pour (they had Schott Zweisel Forte Bdx stems, a little over 4 oz in each of our glasses is a perfect pour). Every quartino was about retail for one bottle (the Riesling, along with Sepp Gruner and Cairnbrae SB were $11, the Babich $15).

Nope. Oakley's Bistro in Indianapolis serves many wines in quartinos. A local wine bar also does.

Mark Lipton

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