The real Jay Miller organized a tasting of Edmunds St. John wines for yesterday evening. I joined Rahsaan on a train upcounty, met up with Jay and Jeff at station, and host John Gilman picked us up. We arrived to find Salil and David and Laura Bueker had already arrived. Nezi joined us as we finished the whites.
John and Marie-France were great hosts, and the food was delicious- a nice spread of cheeses and mousse, followed by an extraordinary mushroom strudel, with lamb and couscous as the main course.
Fun evening, with lots of ..um....debate about screwcaps. A couple of whites, a pink, and then a horde of reds.
White Flight
2008 Edmunds St. John Heart of Gold Peaches, floral, slightly oily, round. B/B-
2004 Edmunds St John Roussanne Floral, big, soft, edging towards hot. B-
A lone Pinky
2009 Edmunds St. John Bone Jolly Gamay Rose Bright strawberries, spring flowers, good acids. Very good. I'll buy. B+
Gamay Flight
2008 Edmunds St. John Porphyry Gamay Noir OK, I'm a screwcap fan, but this definitely reduced (as well as closed). It does open and show some red fruit, and some of the reductive aromas blow off with air, but my least favorite C+
2007 Edmunds St. John Porphyry Gamay Noir Bright, fresh flowers, cherries, nice length and goof Gamay typicity. B
+
2008 Edmunds St. John Bone Jolly Gamay Noir Cherries, a bit of a kirsch edge though not hot or heavy, I think I liked more than table. B/B+
A lone Cali Sangiovese
1999 Edmunds St. John Matagrano Sangiovese This might have been good at one point, but well past it for my tastes. VA, prunes, ashtray. C/C-
The Blends
2005 Edmunds St. John Rocks & Gravel Corked, just slightly, but it's there. Too bad because a good wine lurks underneath
2006 Edmunds St. John That Old Black Magic Ripe, forward, fleshy and friendly. Herbs and red fruits. B+/B
2003 Edmunds St. John Shell and Bone A little tight at first, but good. Ripe red fruits, herbs, mineral. A nice CdP from California! B+
2001 Edmunds St. John Los Robles Viejos As much as I like the Shell and Bones, I like this even more. Complete, complex, deep. A-
A few lone Syrahs
2002 The Shadow Syrah Smoke, dense fruit, I liked more than some others. B+
2008 Edmunds St. John Fairbairn Syrah Primary, young, but I think with lots of potential (someone found it hot, I didn't). B for now
2005 Edmunds St. John Parmelee Hill Syrah Good ripeness, excellent length, clean Syrah aromas. B+
The Wylie Fenaughty Flight
2001 Edmunds St. John Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah Lovely, nice length, medium bodied with good concentration. Black berry fruits, olives, spice. A-
2003 Edmunds St. John Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah A bit muted, seems to be good stuff underneath, but hidden. I think this might be corked, just below my level of perception?
2005 Edmunds St. John Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah Medium bodied but really long, ripe dark fruits, good acids, elegant. Earth, flowers, berries. My WOTN. A/A-
The Bassetti Flight
2001 Edmunds St. John Bassetti Syrah Some light brett notes, but within my tolerance level. A bit heftier, still needs time. Someone says the Bassetti is the Hermitage to the W- F's Cote Rotie, I think it's more Bassetti is to Cornas as WF is to CR. B+
2003 Edmunds St. John Bassetti Syrah Black fruit, spice, meaty, chewy. B+
2005 Edmunds St. John Bassetti Syrah Earth, dark fruits, some herbs. Lots fo structure, this needs time. B+/ A-
The Durrell Flight
1999 Edmunds St. John Durell Syrah Some lifted notes, mature, pleasant. B
1997 Edmunds St. John Durell Syrah Drinking well, black fruits and smoked meat, some light tannins remaining. good acidity. B+/A-
1994 Edmunds St. John Durell Syrah Mature but not the least bit tired, bacon and olives, blackberries. A-/ B+
A lone Zin
1988 Edmunds St. John Amaronese Zinfandel Complex nose of toffee, spice, and blackberry liquer, but a bit disjointed on palate, probably better 10 years ago. B (I liked more than some others)
Quite an event -special thanks to Jay and John. I liked or loved the vast majority of the reds. If anything this strengthened my resolve to buy ESJ. Wish I could make it to some of the NYC events this week.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.