[TN] Backlog notes (CRB Pif & Rotgipfler)

Nov 21, 2009 16 Replies

Over the last few nights, we've opened a couple of interesting bottles that I've neglected to write up. Two nights ago, with a dinner of roast chicken, I opened:


2008 Clos Roche Blanche "Cuvée Pif" nose: red fruits, leafy palate: tight, young, moderate tannins, red fruit

Very tight right now, this shows great promise for the next few years. Alas, sealed with a plastic cork, so I won't be aging it too long.



Last night, with a meal of leftover risotto Milanese and chicken, Jean opened a recent purchase:


2007 Stadlman Rotgipfler "Tagelsteiner" (Thermenregion) nose: powerful, tropical fruit, pineapple (Jean gets overwhelming petrol

-- not me!) palate: thick, viscous, almost oily, very fruity, modest acidity



My first ever Rotgipfler, it struck me as a cross between a New World Pinot Gris and Viognier. Quite heavy feeling, it had just enough acidity to be cleansing. I can see why this is usually blended with Zierfandler, though.



Mark Lipton


thanks, the Pif is in assortment I'm carrying to an event tonight. Too scared to age plastic corks!

I have recently opened several Cotes du Rhones with Stelvin tops. I assume no aging with them either.

Au contraire, Larry. If anything, wines age slower under screwcap. All the studies I've seen have shown less oxygen ingress than cork with far greater consistency bottle to bottle. Apart from some reports of reduction under screwcap, there are no concerns about aging them.

Mark Lipton

Stelvins are glass aren't they. If their is no oxygen exchange will there be any aging?

No, Stelvin closures are just the common metal screwcaps.

Then what are the glass closures called? I have run into these several times now.

Sorry, I don't know. I can't remember ever seeing glass closures.

"Ken Blake" skrev i melding news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Glass stoppers, see this:

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Anders

That;s why they refer to wine aged under Stelvin as "Peter Pan" wines. They never get old...

The most common brand of glass stopper is the Vino-Lok, made by Alcoa IIRC. I mostly see it on lower-end German Rieslings, but I'm sure that others use it, too. No idea about the aging curve of wines sealed that way, but I'd guess that its oxygen permeability is even lower than that of screwcaps. They resemble fire-polished ground glass joints with an O-ring seal, and we use similar seals in the lab when we want something close to a hermetic seal.

Mark Lipton

Yes, this is what I found on two bottles. I had never seen it before.

Thanks. Interesting. But as I said, I've never seen one like that.

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Lower end? Not me :-) I've bought wine from Kees-Kieren with these stoppers, namely their Graacher Domprobst Trocken Spätlese 2006 and 2007. Same from Schloss Vollrads, and from Brauneberger Hof, to name a few.

But, I'll admit that these are wines for short term storage - most Mosel Trocken should be drunk within 2-4 years even when they are from class estates.

And quite a number use Stelvin nowadays. It seems to me that the ranking is

  1. Natural cork for long term storage and expensiver wines
  2. Glass stoppers for good wine and short term storage
  3. Stelvin for cheaper wines but also up to quite good qualities and perhaps for longer storage
  4. Various plastic corks - everyday wine
  5. Composite corks - cheap everyday wine imho, of course. Anders

Sorry for chiming in: Do you mean that you have seen another type of glass stopper, just not this one, or no glass stopper at all?

To the best of my knowledge, this type (Vino-Lok) is the only one, and it's used in Austria and Germany since around 2003, but I'd estimate the penetration rate well below 5% for them. (Screw-caps in Austria, otoh, have a market share of over 70% of the whole production.)

M.

Sorry to have confused you. I've seen no glass stoppers at all.

Yes, this was on a Cote du Rhone and is a glass stopper.

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