Betsy and I took the train into the city last night to celebrate our friend Joe Bongiorno's 50th. Joe is passionate about a lot of things, especially Italian food and wine. This summer he spent in Piemonte, and he regaled us with tales (and pictures) of his visits to wine producers, especially Bartolo Mascarello. He prepared a fantastic meal, and we enjoyed:
Prunes stuffed with foie gras in Armagnac dusted with pistachios, served with:
1988 Paul Bara "Comtesse Marie de France" Champagne Pleasant easy drinking Champagne, nice yeasty notes, good mousse. But maybe a bit light and insubstantial for a Tete de Cuvée with some age on it. B
With pumpkin ravioli with sage and prosciutto:
1997 Antinori Cervaro della Sala. Pretty good dose of oak, a little short in the fruit department. Mostly Chardonnay with some Grechetto. Fat and a bit empty tasting. B-
With tagliatelle and shaved white truffle, drizzled with a good Tuscan olive oil from Col d'Orcia:
1989 Scarpa Barbaresco This had been decanted an hour earlier, sweet smelling nose at opening. But served with dinner, this bottle (bought at auction) showed as possibly cooked. Thin fruit, oxidized and maybe maderized. A second bottle was opened, reticent at first, but eventually opened into an OK wine with cherry fruit, a little mushroomy nuance, and a bright acid backbone. There still was a light edge of madizeration, and the finish was a bit short, but (unlike first one) it was enjoyable. Bottle #2 gets a B-
With risotto and squab:
1997 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino Quiet at first. When it opened up, showed nice dark berry fruit, floral nose with a little hint of leather. Still some tannins kicking around, Ripe as you'd expect from '97, but there was an overall feeling of balance between the acidity, tannins, and fruit. B+
1997 Castello di Rampolla Chianti Classico Aromas of earth and herbs, flavors of dried cherries . Pretty nice Chianti, though a little on the ripe side- it could have used a little more acidity for my tastes. B
With braised lamb shanks, brussel sprouts, and a parsnip/pear mash:
1982 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo (from magnum) Decanted a couple of hours before serving. Floral nose, hints of truffles and roses. Nice red berry fruit, balanced acidity. It continued to change throughout the evening, wafting tar, grilled meat, and violets at various times. Clearly the WOTN (which was pretty expected). A/A-
There was also some tasty duck breast floating around.
As we worked our way through the wines, Joe served a trio of sorbets (Moscato d'Asti, lavender and rose), followed by a couple of nice Italian cheeses. Finished with the 1997 Bruno Giacosa Extra Brut. Pleasant enough bubbly, if you're partial to Moët White Star. Baked apple-pie fruit, a little hint of lemon. Just a hint of yeast. B-
Oh, and there was an apricot tart (reports were it was tasty!)
Very nice night with a very nice group of people. Fantastic food (though Joe was a little miffed re the quality of the white truffle- it wasn't the best, but I'm always happy to have truffles), good wines, great conversation. Joe made a big banner "No Barrique No Bush" and took a picture, said he was going to send to Bartolo's daughter. Fun night.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre at best. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Dale
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