Monday was our annual white truffle and Nebbiolo dinner at Ben and Wendy?s. 9 members of our Bordeaux grew were joined by a Piedmont fanatic from a bit upstate. We started with a comparison of 5 potato chips from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm , each from a different potato variety
2007 Raveneau Montmains Chablis 1er Bright, young, flinty and fresh. B+/A-2010 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee Champagne Quite good, chalky, orange peel and apple, apple turnover from oven. Good acidity, long., A-
We went to table where menu was Soft-scrambled eggs w/ white truffles Tajarin w/ butter and white truffles Braised beef shanks (including marrow) with polenta and green beans Homemade vanilla ice cream w/ white truffles
Flight 1
1989 Aldo Conterno Bussia Soprano Barolo Fresh ripe berry fruit, a little tar and some ferric notes, tea leaves. Lovely and ready. A- . 1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo A couple of us felt there was a little spritz/prickliness, even though it had been decanted for many hours. But it didn?t detract for me, though this was still a bit in a shell, you could feel and taste the great wine underneath. Red fruit, Christmas tree, firm tannins, tangy acids. A-1999 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Very young, smoke and anise, needs time. B+/B for now, could be as great as the ?89.
Flight 2
1989 G. Mascarello Monprivato Barolo Quite firmly wrapped in structure, but deep. B+ tonight1999 G. Mascarello Monprivato Barolo This took a while to open up in glass, but I liked, perfumed with herbs and smoke. B+/A-
1999 Vietti Rocche Barolo I didn?t love this (to be fair, it was carried to tasting and only decanted then), seems a little disjointed, acid and tannin distract, some mocha and vanilla over quiet fruit, B-Flight 3
1989 B Giacosa Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba Barolo Riserva A legend living up to rep. Black cherries, smoke, tar, floral notes, balanced and long. Sweet. A- 1999 B. Giacosa Le Rocche di Falletto Barolo Not a Riserva but stunning. Rich fruit, anise, coffee, tar, so long. Squeaks into first place in strong competition. A-/A1999 G. Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo A great wine that is a bit overshadowed by the Giacosas. On its own would be a wow wine- beautiful fruit, balance, with structure for age. B+/A-
Flight 4
1999 Sandrone Cannubi Boschis Barolo Sweet fruit but not overripe, macerated cherry with some exotic sandalwood. B+2009 Voerzio Cerequio Barolo Accidental wine- he thought he had grabbed and opened the 1999. Mocha and kirsch, really not at moment what I want. B-
But once Bill looked at cork and realized he brought up and opened wrong wine, he decided to bring a 1990 Ch. d?Yquem. Sweet (in both senses)!! Dark color but excellent bottle- vanilla, apricot, honeycomb. A-/B+ Great night. Ben and Wendy were fantastic hosts, lovely truffles, all the food was outstanding, company and wines as well.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.