WTN: white truffle dinner with 11 Barolos

Monday was our annual white truffle and Nebbiolo dinner at Ben and Wendy?s. 9 members of our Bordeaux grew were joined by a Piedmont fanatic from a bit upstate. We started with a comparison of 5 potato chips from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm , each from a different potato variety
2007 Raveneau Montmains Chablis 1er Bright, young, flinty and fresh. B+/A-
2010 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee Champagne Quite good, chalky, orange peel and apple, apple turnover from oven. Good acidity, long., A-
We went to table where menu was Soft-scrambled eggs w/ white truffles Tajarin w/ butter and white truffles Braised beef shanks (including marrow) with polenta and green beans Homemade vanilla ice cream w/ white truffles
Flight 1 1989 Aldo Conterno Bussia Soprano Barolo Fresh ripe berry fruit, a little tar and some ferric notes, tea leaves. Lovely and ready. A- . 1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo A couple of us felt there was a little spritz/prickliness, even though it had been decanted for many hours. But it didn?t detract for me, though this was still a bit in a shell, you could feel and taste the great wine underneath. Red fruit, Christmas tree, firm tannins, tangy acids. A-
1999 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Very young, smoke and anise, needs time. B+/B for now, could be as great as the ?89.
Flight 2 1989 G. Mascarello Monprivato Barolo Quite firmly wrapped in structure, but deep. B+ tonight
1999 G. Mascarello Monprivato Barolo This took a while to open up in glass, but I liked, perfumed with herbs and smoke. B+/A-
1999 Vietti Rocche Barolo I didn?t love this (to be fair, it was carried to tasting and only decanted then), seems a little disjointed, acid and tannin distract, some mocha and vanilla over quiet fruit, B-
Flight 3 1989 B Giacosa Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba Barolo Riserva A legend living up to rep. Black cherries, smoke, tar, floral notes, balanced and long. Sweet. A- 1999 B. Giacosa Le Rocche di Falletto Barolo Not a Riserva but stunning. Rich fruit, anise, coffee, tar, so long. Squeaks into first place in strong competition. A-/A
1999 G. Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo A great wine that is a bit overshadowed by the Giacosas. On its own would be a wow wine- beautiful fruit, balance, with structure for age. B+/A-
Flight 4 1999 Sandrone Cannubi Boschis Barolo Sweet fruit but not overripe, macerated cherry with some exotic sandalwood. B+
2009 Voerzio Cerequio Barolo Accidental wine- he thought he had grabbed and opened the 1999. Mocha and kirsch, really not at moment what I want. B-
But once Bill looked at cork and realized he brought up and opened wrong wine, he decided to bring a 1990 Ch. d?Yquem. Sweet (in both senses)!! Dark color but excellent bottle- vanilla, apricot, honeycomb. A-/B+ Great night. Ben and Wendy were fantastic hosts, lovely truffles, all the food was outstanding, company and wines as well.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
Reply to
DaleW
Dale, Of the many TN you've posted here, few have inspired as much envy in me as this one. I'm late to the game, but have a new-found love for the aromatics of mature Nebbiolo. Add to that the allure of white truffle and I'm over the moon. Thanks for sharing these notes: vicarious is as close as I'm ever likely to get to a Giacosa Riserva, so I'm happy to get this sniff.
Cheers! Mark Lipton
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Reply to
Mark Lipton

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