[TN] Born Under a Bad Sign ('06 Clos de Briords)

Apr 01, 2008 2 Replies

Today was one of the first truly warm days of the year, reaching 61 F (16°C) but rained almost nonstop. Undeterred by the moisture, Jean convinced me to unearth the smoker from the garage and prepare the season's first batch of grilled food, some jerk chicken using our regionally infamous jerk paste. Because I am suffering from a mild cold, we decided against beer or red wine to avoid histamines and instead I convinced Jean to open a bottle lingering on our "open now" shelf:


2006 Dom. de Pepiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine "Clos de Briords" nose: minerals, green apples palate: light, crisp, rounded, a touch of honey

Bought for $15 at Sam's earlier this year, this perennial QPR winner was abnormally ready to drink (I'm still cellaring the '04, which can probably age for another decade effortlessly). After 30-45 minutes, though, I got a distinct, though subtle, whiff of TCA from the wine. When I mentioned to Jean that it now tasted slightly corked, she confided that she too had recently noticed the taint. This now makes a half dozen bottles opened in the last month that have proved to be corked, usually only barely. What have I done to deserve such a fate? It's now clear to me that I've made Dionysos's s*it list, but I don't know why. Clearly, an offering is in order, though, so I'll have to locate a lamb to offer up in the next month ;-) Jean remarked, though, that for the wine to have been this appealing when it was: a) mildly corked and b) paired with an unflattering match in jerk chicken is a great testament to how good a wine it really is. And, yet again after another sensational Muscadet, it makes me wonder why I risk my money on Chablis any more...


Mark Lipton


Jerk chicken - nice! Although I can't help but think that a young Riesling would have gone better with the heat in the dish. Sounds like a lovely Muscadet, nonetheless. As far as spending money on Chablis - there are plenty of minerals elsewhere. :) A complete digression here, but I recently opened a 2004 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Riesling from Margaret River (all of $14 from Flickinger). Some kerosene, smoke, minerals and citrus at first with a little petrolly funk - after an hour or two, I noticed the petrol and slightly funky character had completely blown off, and it had evolved into an Aussie Chablis equivalent - lemon oil and LOTS of minerals.

Cheers,

Salil

Sorry for the bad luck. I agree the '06 is atypically forward, but still don't think it would have any problems aging at least short to midterm.

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