TN: CFE, Brun, and a Haut-Medoc in search of character

Sep 04, 2003 1 Replies

Wednesday Betsy was making an Asian-inspired stew with beef, spinach, and lots of ginger. She said she wasn't going to have more than a sip of wine, so I looked at the meager collection of 375s I had at home. Bordeaux wasn't maybe best match, but what I was in the mood for. I had picked up a couple of 375s of



2000 Ch. Bel Air (Haut-Médoc) for less than $6 on sale. Not a Cru Bourgeois I knew, but it said Domaines Henri Martin on label, and I'm a Gloria fan - and at that price how wrong could I be? And truthfully there was nothing wrong with the wine. Soft easy ripe blackcurrant fruit, decent structure, ok finish. But there was also nothing that shouted "Bordeaux" about it, it could have been a well-made but anonymous Chilean or Napa cabernet. Certainly a decent deal at $5.xx, but I won't pick up more. There are some apparent tannins, I might just stick the remaining half away for 2-3 years to see if some character emerges. B

A friend who had been away most of the summer came for dinner last night. Betsy made an eggplant risotto and a grilled squid salad (and I chopped up some heirloom tomatoes and added basil and EVOO). For the first time in 6 months or so I tried the



1997 Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Émile Riesling. A little reticent at first, but an hour after opening some strong character emerged. Rich aromas of flowers and peaches, palate of citrus and apples. Lingering flavors of smoke and minerals, long finish. While this might be soft by CFE standards, the acidity is still bracing. I know people have said this is an early-drinking CFE, and it probably is compared to the '98, but I'd still say this could be cellared (and benefit from it) for quite some time. A/A-

Suddenly realized our glasses and the bottle were both empty, so opened a 2002 JP Brun Terres Dorres Beaujolais Blanc. Very nice pure Chardonnay fruit - nose of apples and chalk, clean palate of pears and apples, balanced acidity. Good wine and good QPR ($9-10). B+.



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre at best. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Dale



Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply


Jean-Paul Brun's white Beaujolais is a delight. I hope he doesn't join the list of growers who are grubbing up their Chardonnay and replanting with Gamay (much as I like his Terres Dorées Rouge). He was upgrading the car park when I was there recently and creating a visitors' area. I wish him well - he's a nice man and I like (most of) his wines. Regards, John

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