Deaver Vineyards Amador County Syrah 2002
Located next door to Renwood Vineyard in the Amador region, just east of Sacramento, CA, this winery is known most for their Zinfandels, however, they also do several other varietals, including this Syrah.
Deep purple in color, almost opaque right up to the tiny clear meniscus, this wine is concentrated. It was not cellared, so it's a few degrees warmer, than I usually pour my reds. The nose is black cherry (maybe stewed black cherry), plum, with a hint of what I can only describe as milk chocolate. That element is too light and sweet to be a darker variety. Initially, there was a caramelized sugar note, not unlike the top of a good crème brûlée. That passed in a few moments a now asserts itself as light vanilla. The tannins are noticeable, but tight. I'd guess that a few more years in the cellar diminish their effect on the tongue and the roof of the mouth. The wine was poured, un
-decanted, into a Riedel Vinium Bordeaux glass, and aerated in the glass with a few good swirls before each smell, or taste.
After about 10 minutes, the vanilla and black cherry has given way to a slightly smoky grilled meat nose. This is not at the level of an Hermitage with some years, but is noticeable. Any hint of crème brûlée is now gone.
Though it is listed as 14.6% alcohol, there is no trace of heat, either on the nose, or the palette. I find the finish to be in the medium, medium-low range, though the tannins last for a few extra moments on the tongue. The acid level is slightly higher, than I would expect from a domestic Syrah, but that might well help it pair with more foods. At 20 minutes, the chocolate is back and there is a decidedly "sweet" note on the nose, but not on the palette. Again, this reminds me more of milk, rather than dark chocolate. The grilled meat aspect is but an undertone now.
To date, this wine is available through the Deaver Wine Club, and should be released to retail and restaurants soon. It is listed at US$21.99. I've had their wines on several occasions in restaurants in the Sacramento area, so their distribution might be very limited.
They have sold me on putting a case of this one away for about five years, and coming back to it then.