TN: 2001 Kent Callaghan Cuveé

Sep 13, 2004 2 Replies

Here's one for you. The Callaghan Vineyards, Buena Suerte Cuveé 2001. Now this is not one that folk are likely to find at Oddbins, or most any retailers in the US, UK, Europe, OZ, or NZ, but I thought it was worth a look. From the tiny burg of Elgin, AZ, near the Dos Cabazas Mountains, the 2001 Callaghan Buena Suerte Cuveé is 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot and



15% Zinfandel. All grapes come from southern Arizona. I've been fortunate enough to have tasted this wine for the last four years. The 2001 could definitely use a few more years in the cellar. I've usually laid the previous wines down for about three-four years, before doing a critical tasting. This one, I rushed a bit.

Undecanted and at 55 F from the cellar, the nose was definitely new oak. With a few swirls, that faded somewhat, and black current, black berry, a hint of raspberry and a little cedar was evident. The color is a deep purple, with a slight clear meniscus.The tannins, probably from the aforementioned oak, were present on the palette. At this stage in its development, the tannins were far too forward, but this guy is still quite young. The winemaker's (Kent Callaghan) notes suggest that "several additional years in the cellar... " will benefit this wine. I concur. The Zinfandel, I think, contributes to the long finish, as well as the fruit-forward aspect, after the oak dissipates. Even after a few minutes in the glass, there was still a spirit element, both on the nose, and on the palette. At 14.6% alcohol, that is not unexpected.



I tried to find the "licorice" and the "pepper," listed in the winemaker's notes, but could never detect them.



After about ten minutes, the palette started showing some blueberry - slightly tannic blueberry. The nose was giving up some "grilled-meat" notes, and some sweet cinnamon bark, not the ground variety. Even now, the tannins are quite evident, though tight. The "spirity nose" was still in evidence.



At US$25/btl, this would be a good grilled beef, or lamb wine. As a matter of fact, I plan on pouring a few glasses with a grilled, Southwestern seasoned tenderloin later tonight. Unfortunately, this wine, like some of the minor US regional wines just does not receive much distribution. Some of the Texas, and Virginia wines come to mind here. Sorry to the international subscribers of this NG - and to almost anyone who is not in the SW US. As I recall, an earlier vintage of this wine was declared the White House red, back in the first Clinton administration.



In closing, I'd second Callaghan's recommendation for more time in the cellar, or opt for decanting about an hour, before serving. With the alcohol level, I'd also not serve this blend too warm. Maybe decant, then about 15 minuets in the fridge, would be the best tack.



Tasting in Riedel Vinum Bordeaux glass.



Hunt



I have always wanted to taste his wines. I stopped in Sonita, AZ, the "Wine Capital of Arizona" and asked the manager of a general store where all the vineyards were, having seen their sign. He said to me, "Son, grapes are not the only thing that you make wine out of". I have also been fascinated by Webb Winery to the north that claims to have the only existing pre-phylloxera root stock in the US and Nogales Winery that ferments their wine in concrete pipes.

I'm not familiar with either of the other two mentioned wineries. The majority of the wine from AZ is in the novelty category, IMHO. Callaghan and the winery for which he was winemaker for some time, Dos Cabezas, are the only two, that I have tasted, that were serious wines. I have heard stories of a gentleman in Sedona, who was doing a wonderful Syrah with grapes from the Oak Creek area, but everyone who spoke of it had been to private tastings at the winemaker's home, and I've never been able to find any (or get an invitation to his home :-{ ), so I cannot comment. I will look into Webb and Nogales though. Thanks for the pointer.

Hunt

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