TN: Good Gevrey and Rosso-d-M, others

Saturday we went to dinner at some friends' house. I had a sip of a Kir Royale, the switched to a red Loire, the 2003 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre. A little tough at first- served straight from the fridge, it seemed shockingly tannic for Sancerre rouge. But as it warmed a bit the tannic sense subsided and some rather fleshy raspberry fruit emerged. I liked more and more as the night went on, though there was a touch of unintegrated oak. This was not flabby or lacking in acidity- I really think overall the reds fared better in the Loire in 2003 than the whites. B

With the first sitdown course, an avocado filled with salmon roe and creme fraiche, Alex served the 2003 Louis Latour "Les Genievres" Macon-Lugny. Pretty anonymous round Chardonnay, just a hint of oak with low acidity and rather round apple fruit. B-/C+

As Alex cooked the mystery main course, we had a bottle of the 1998 Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino. As it was poured, I was a bit doubtful, as I tend to drink Rosso on release. But this was a very pleasant surprise, really a pointe, medium-bodied with a leathery note wafting over the dried cherry and red plum fruit. A little earth and herb, one of the nicest RdMs I remember. B+/A-

As far as I recall, this meal was the first time I've ever had foie gras as a main course . Alex had ordered a whole liver from d'Artagnan, and served thin slices gently seared with a sauce that included grapes, accompanied by a celeriac puree. Yum.

We also had the 2000 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Corbeaux

1er Cru Vieilles Vignes - I had bought this after a store tasting, then immediately saw some rather negative notes on the wine boards. But there was nothing lacking about this bottle to me. An hour of air brought out loads of earth, over a solid body of black cherry fruit. Rich fruit, enough acidit, and not much in the way of perceptible tannins, this is ready to go. Last glass showed some tobacco (not somethng I tend to think of as Burgundian) and animal/meat notes. Pretty without being effete, I wish I had more (for drinking over next 3-4 years). B+/A-

With dessert (I don't eat, but I think spice cake and grapefruit sorbet), we had the 2003 Clos De Paulilles Banyuls. Overipe blackberries & black cherries with a bit of a pruney note. Others liked this more than I (an admitted non-Banyuls fan). B/B-

Most importantly, great night with nice friends.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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DaleW
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