TN: Gruner and Savennieres from so-so vintages

Jan 05, 2005 6 Replies

Monday Betsy was away till right before dinner, but craftily had stashed a pork shoulder and caramelized onions with some cider in a dutch oven, and left the oven on. We all arrived home at same time, I did some braised arugala and some green beans with anchovy and garlic, and within 20 minutes we were eating. I opened the 2003 Kartäuser Grüner Veltliner (Wachau). A little pea, a little white pepper, this was definitely GV. But a little on the dilute side, and a bit softer as far as acidity than my preference (I attribute the former to the producer, previously unknown to me, and the latter to the vintage). Decent QPR at $11, but not something to seek out. B/B-



Tonight was another timing challenge, this time for getting finished. I picked up David after a school event and got him home 25 minutes before his math tutor was coming, Betsy was ready to put dinner on table. Cod in a lemon/white wine/herb sauce, I grabbed the one bottle that was upstairs (in the fridge), the 2000 Ch. d'Epiré "Cuvée Speciale Savennières (is there a cuvée regular? Every Epiré I've ever seen was special). Too cold to really judge with dinner, but after the wolfed-down meal Bets and I retired to living room to commune with each other, wine, and dog while David and tutor used dining table. As it warmed, some good Chenin character- wax, flowers, apples, chalk, and apricot- emerged. Softer acidity than any Savennières I've encountered before, and everything seem a little subdued; yet for a wine from an unheralded producer in an unheralded vintage not a bad showing. B/B+



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency Dale



Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply


Dale Williams wrote: I

That Gruner... Smaragd? Federspiel? Just curious. e.

At $11 it cannot have been smaragd.

Ototh, "Kartäuser" says nothing to me. Was it Stierschneider Kartäuserhof

?

M.

Michael (and Emily):

2003 Kartäuser Grüner Veltliner was extent of what was listed on front label, I would have remembered (and noted) a ripeness designation. The label didn't look anything like the website Michael cited, but I think that's right because (a) I think on rear label it mentioned the name Stierschneider & (b) the sources page on website mentioned Matt Brothers as the US rep, and they were definitely the importers. My guess a low-end US-only export. Best, Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Ok, just got home, here's what we have: Front label Kartäuser Grüner Veltliner

2003 Wachau Osterreich

Back label: Kartäuser Erzeugerabfüllung Karl Stierschneider A-3610 Weissenkirchen

2003 Grüner Veltliner Wachau

Then some small print: qualitatswein staatl, 12.5%abv, Prüfnr F9597/03 (is that like an AP number?), etc

Thanks for your help. I said, it's ok, but I generally prefer the co-op (Domane Wachau) Terrassen GV at around same price point, or Nigh Freiheit for dollar or two more. Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

That stands for "Qualitätswein mit staatlicher Prüfnummer F9597/03", and, yes, it's the Austrian equivalent to the German AP number, the last two digits being the year the Prüfnummer (examination number) was granted (or the sample was submitted? In fact I don't know.)

Yes, that's probably a special export bottling. Given the fact that the Prüfnummer is from the same year as the vintage this probably is a rather early bottling - which means that it's never among the best (they are given more time).

M.

Got me curious there. So I looked through our catalog and found that in all cases Smaragd or equivalent wines have a number with the year being after the vintage year. Some Federspiel wines have the same year, some the following, and all the Steinfeder wines have the same year. I realize this doesn't answer the question as to whether the year is for when the sample was submitted or Prüfnummer granted, but I thought I'd share anyhow.

It would be really great if they posted the chemical analyses for the wines online and folks could search using the Prüfnummer. I'm looking at a stack of these right now and I find them quite interesting.

e.

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