TN: in which I prefer New World Pinot to Savennieres

Mar 04, 2011 4 Replies

The 2003 Ch. d'Epire "Cuvee Speciale" Savennieres showed typicity, but unfortunately only the typicity of the vintage. Light oxidative notes, flat, flabby, and a bit hot. Tried the next day heavily sherried, really hot, and unpleasant. C-



So I didn't go with that for dinner. Betsy said she was making a Biba recipe of spaghetti with clams, I glanced at book and saw sidebar recommending Soave. So I went with the 2009 Anselmi San Vincenzo. Seemed not a great match with the clams over pasta with red pepper, till Betsy pointed out my mistake- I was looking the next recipe, for pasta with mussels . Oops. OK, so not a great match with the pepper flakes, but a pretty good wine- light to midbodied, white pit fruit and a nutty edge, moderate acidity, nice finish. B



Thursday Betsy did duck 2 ways- first individual asparagus casseroles with pecorino and a nice runny duck egg, then slow-cooked crusted duck leg, and mashed "green" potatoes (with dandelion). I had brought a bottle of Pinot Noir upstairs last week for salmon till I realized the prep didn't work, so this seemed like good time to open. I had limited expectations and was already going through possibilities for replacement wines. Not needed, I was very happy with how the 1988 Adelsheim Pinot Noir (Oregon) showed. Light color, wine is more elegant than powerful. Really sweet cherry fruit (no RS, just a sweet fruit profile) with a little pomegranite edge. Some earth and a touch of poop, gives way to spicy notes. Thoroughly enjoyable, I'm shocked how fresh this is. Held well for quite a while, though after 4 hours the ultimate glass was a bit murky (I didn't decant) and less pleasing than others as it began to fall apart. I might have to try other bottle matched in a blind flight with a Savigny or Volnay. My A- might be giving it  an extra boost for exceeding expectations, but in any case I enjoyed.   Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



DaleW wrote in news:d8418bdc-3dae-4d31-915f- snipped-for-privacy@r19g2000prm.googlegroups.com:

On my first trip to the Loire I entered one wine shop that has been, since then, one of my trustable sources of Loire wines. One of the first wines I purchased at that caviste was a bottle of Chateau d'Epiré, which I disliked. The following year I told him about that and he said: "impossible, perhaps that was an off bottle". So I got another. Which I also disliked.

With time, I have learnt that Chateau d'Epiré is a very traditional producer and that their wines usually take quite long to come around. I also learnt that they were not in their best shape lately.

Which of the two reasons (besides the vintage) is the most probably source of your dissappointment, I cannot tell.

BTW, there are not many Savennières that I really enjoy. Domaine du Closel and Baumard make, if memory serves, wines that are quite approachable when young (Clos St. Yves, Clos du Papillon, La Jalouise), but I will not say they are utterly profound. Nicolas Joly bottles Le Vieux Clos labelled as Savennières, and it is usually more complex and intriguing. The new "cool" Savennières is L'Enclos from Eric Morgat but I have tasted four or five vintages and it always looks alcoholic to me (but I seem to be the only person on earth that dislikes his wine!)

What a difficult and small area.

s.

In addition to the producers you mention, I've had good experience with Ch. Soucherie "Clos des Perrieres" Savennieres. Baumard's Savienneres have been good, but Closel is a cut above IMO. There have been recent changes at both addresses, however, so I am not sure what the current states of affairs at either is.

Mark Lipton

. I had brought a

Adelsheim is one of the few west coast Pinots that have consistantly pleased my palate. Glad you enjoyed as I would have given a gushing recommend!

Adelsheim always surprises me and I don't know why. Their wines are always solid. Nothing earth shattering but always pleasing and a good buy as they are available everywhere. The Pinot Gris is also a good buy and always a winner.

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