Tonight marked the arrival of fresh, wild-caught salmon back in our local fishmonger's. With a wood-grilled filet of Copper River Sockeye, I opened:
2008 Hirsch Grüner Veltliner Heiligenstein (Kamptal) nose: green/herbal, honey, stone fruit palate: moderate acidity, rich, long finish
Initially, this wine was a bit reticent, but upon warming it was transformed into one of the finest GVs I've had in quite a while. I had bought this on the presumption that it would have Federspiel-like weight, but in fact it came across more as the equivalent of a Smaragd. Regardless, it was lovely and went splendidly with the salmon.
Mark Lipton