TN: inexpensive Burg and GruVe do their jobs well

Sep 20, 2005 2 Replies

Sunday I marinated some sockeye (previously frozen) in a blend of black soy sauce, black vinegar, white wine, garlic and ginger, then grilled on some white cedar planks and served accompanied by corn and broccoli rabe. Wine was a 375 of the 2002 Faiveley Côte de Beaune Villages. Nice light-bodied Burg, clear sweet strawberry and raspberry fruit with some earth on the finish. Nothing complicated, nothing exciting, but all you could ask of a $10 half-bottle. B



Monday Betsy was back at the cooking helm for the first time in a few days, and decided to go all out with a modified surf'n'turf, lamb chops grilled and served over a pea/asparagus/bean puree, accompanied by lobster tails grilled with a tomato butter. Obviously no one white is going to do well with both, but luckily a small amount of the '99 Leoville-Poyferre from Saturday was hanging in there, so I chose a white for the lobster. It was the 2001 Hirsch Heiligenstein Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Zingy nose of flowers, herbs, and green peas. White peaches on the palate, accented by Meyer lemon zest. Not a big powerful Grüner, a moderately sized white with a smooth finish, with a note of almost Muscadet-ish minerality/seasalt. The typically GV pea and white pepper notes go very well with the dish. I have that I paid $14 for this, a truly excellent value. B+/A-



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Interesting choice to go with the lobster. I admit that lobster is the one dish where my consistent "go to" is an oaked, Cal Chardonnay. Butter with butter.

I'm intrigued about the pea/asparagus/bean puree. Can you go into a little more detail? Especially, what sort of bean? I'd like to try this one out. And funny- with the pea & asparagus, THIS is where I would automatically assume a Gruner pairing!

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I almost opened one of my few Big Buttery CalCabs, a Beringer Sbragia, for this - I do like the combo. But the tomato butter on the lobster gave me pause, and the pea/aspargus was what tilted me to GV. Here' s recipe (lobster is in no way spicy by my standards, but it is tasty)

Grilled Lamb Chops and Spicy Lobster with Garden Puree Recipe

Garden Puree:

1/2 pound sugar snap peas, trimmed 1 pound English peas, shelled, or 1 cup frozen petite peas 1/2 pound asparagus, tips only (about 2 1/2 inches) 1/2 pound haricots verts or tender green beans, trimmed 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup ricotta cheese 3 scallions, green parts only, roughly chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 (1 1/2-inch thick) lamb chops Extra-virgin olive oil

1 stick unsalted butter 1 tomato, seeded and chopped 3 sprigs fresh thyme Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 lobster tails, halved Mint leaves, for garnish

Make the Garden Puree: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the peas, asparagus tips, and green beans and cook until bright green and crisp tender, about 3 minutes. (If you're using frozen peas, you can throw them in during the last minute to thaw.) Drain, transfer to a bowl of salted ice water to stop the cooking, and drain again. Save a few pieces of each vegetable to use as garnish. Puree the cooled greens in a food processor while pouring in the olive oil. Add the ricotta and scallions and process again. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper; set aside. For the lamb chops: Brush the lamb chops with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over medium-high heat for about 8 minutes per side for medium rare. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

For the lobster: In a small saucepan over low heat melt the butter with the tomato, thyme, salt, and pepper. Cook for about 5 minutes to break down the tomato; set aside. Coat the lobster tails with olive oil and season them with salt and pepper. Grill them shell side down for about

5 minutes. Turn them over and spoon on some of the tomato butter; cook for another 5 minutes. Remove from the grill and keep warm.

To serve: Spoon a generous mound of the Garden Puree onto a plate. Place a lamb chop on top of the Garden Puree and place a lobster tail next to that. Spoon some more tomato butter over the lobster. Garnish the lamb chop with the reserved vegetables and some mint leaves.

I'll note that the lobster grilling instructions made no sense to me (the butter on the shell), so I just turned twice times (once you split a tail it basically has three sides), basting the meat side.

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