TN: Holiday wines- Barbaresco, CdP, Vouvray, etc

Dec 28, 2005 20 Replies

Christmas Eve Betsy prepared lechon asado, a Cuban pork roast. I emailed Manuel Camblor for some Cuban-food matching advice. He suggested a Burg with good acidity (he said a Gevrey had worked well for him) or a white with good acidity and little residual sugar (specifically Austrian or Alsace Riesling). As I was going to be driving a van into city for a Christmas Eve celebration on the street later, I decided to open a 375 of the 1997 Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling, and also try the last remaining couple ounces of a bottle of '99 Castagnier Gevrey-Chambertin). Unfortunately I realized just before dinner the CFE was corked. Curses, foiled again.



The Gevrey DID work quite well with the pork, the garlic rice, and green beans. I opened a half-bottle of the 2004 Huet Le Haut-Lieu Vouvray Sec (in line with Manuel's overall advice, which to me is more important than the specifics). Crisp Chenin-apple fruit, a teeny hint of sweetness, some minerality on the finish. Not quite the length I would hope for. Not a great Vouvray, but good. B



As to match, this wasn't bad., but Austrian/Alsace Riesling is on list for next time (and there will be a next time, as the leftovers were frozen- recipe from new Gourmet cookbook, highly recommended).



Before heading to city, we dropped by a friend's Christmas Eve open house for a few minutes. Mostly wines I'd tried before, but I did try the 2004 St. Cosme Cotes du Rhone. Nice medium-bodied red with some smoke and meat aromas, modern without being unrecognizable as a Rhone. My memory of past vintages is that this is all or mostly Syrah, and this did have a rather Syrah-y sense to it. I just had a couple sips due to driving, but will probably see if I can find a bottle to try. B



Our party on the streets was successful but exhausting, and we dragged ourselves to bed at 3 AM. Up early Christmas morn to open presents and then head to airport. Uneventful flight to Orange County, where Betsy's parents picked us up. Then to their motel in Laguna. Betsy phoned her grandmother (who had made latkes for the first night of Chanukkah ) and told that we would get main course and salad. We went for a walk on the beach, when it suddenly occurred to me that supermarkets would close early on Christmas Day (I wasn't thinking in holiday mode once I was in SoCal). Oops! Two supermarkets closed their doors in our face, the third was long closed. We ended up picking up burritos and chimichangas at a liquor store. So Christmas/Chanukkah dinner was store-bought Mexican (at least better than NY convenience store Mexican) and latkes. We sang a couple verses of Felice Chanakkuh, and enjoyed being together. I am wary of travel shock, so had brought a bottle I figured would be "tough" for travel, the 2001 Guigal Chateauneuf-du-Pape. I don't know whether this was travel shock or just overrated by press, but this didn't do much for me. Modest cherry and sweet raspberry fruit, a little hint of leather. Just the tiniest hint of herb to make one realize this might be CdP, but I have had many CdR that exhibited more Southern Rhone character than this. Nothing offensive, but nothing to make stand out either. Wasn't just the strange match- Day 2 with some roast chicken didn't show any better.B-



Tuesday was Betsy's grandmother's lasagna, and I opened the 2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco. With the co-op's tendency towards traditionally styled Nebbiolo and the vintage's structured reputation, I had some small fears this might be hard and unapproachable. Not to worry. A bit tight at first, but opened nicely. Medium-bodied, cherry and strawberry fruit, some floral and tar notes. Tannins are present, but ripe enough not to be harsh. This has a future, but pretty tasty now. B+



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Does Zachy's have the Cosme. I can't find it here in Virginia Beach or anywhere close?

Also, where did Betsy get the recipe for Lech> Christmas Eve Betsy prepared lechon asado, a Cuban pork roast. I

Zachys was showing the St Cosme on sale for $10ish, I believe. The recipe was ffrom the new Gourmet cookbook, came out last year (some discussion here from Max H. and others I think). Recipe has Cuban pork in the title, is subtitled puerco asado (my Cuban acquaintance referred to it as lechon asado, so I did too).If you don't have access to book, email me your snail address and I'll copy and mail it.

I tend to like St Cosme, though the Valbelle can be REAL oaky.

I ordered 3 bottles from Zachy's on-line.

I don't have access to that particular book

My snail mail address is Lawrence Leichtman

1716 Colson Ct. Virginia Beach, VA 23454

Thanks so much for the wine recommendation and the recipe in advance.

Very easy and effective way of grading !!!!! If you would like to discover some other wines(like Barbaresco), coming from Piedmont (north-west of Italy), you can take a look at:

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Baby-killer!! ;-) The Latin Liquidator has been known to consume his fair share of Huets, so I doubt that he'd object to your pairing. But, seriously, don't you think that the '04 is perhaps in an awkward stage? They rarely seem (in my very limited experience) to show well in their youth, but YMMV.

You know that I'm not much of a fan of Guigal's nego offerings, but they did seem to produce a quality 2000 CdP (which is one of the few Guigals now in my cellar). Nonetheless, their CdP usually leaves me cold.

Belated Happy New Year, Dale! Mark Lipton

Mark, While I believe in aging Huet, that is because usually I buy demi-sec. I don't think the sec ages especially well except in very good vintages ('96, '97, '02). 2004 was a mediocre Vouvray vintage from what I taste and gather (Huet actually made ONLY sec, I believe).

Yes, right after I poted that I noted that it was the sec you were talking about. Interesting, isn't it, that Vouvray had such problems when Muscadet had such success in '04?

Mark Lipton

] DaleW wrote: ] > Mark, ] > While I believe in aging Huet, that is because usually I buy demi-sec. ] > I don't think the sec ages especially well except in very good vintages ] > ('96, '97, '02). 2004 was a mediocre Vouvray vintage from what I taste ] > and gather (Huet actually made ONLY sec, I believe). ] > ] ] Yes, right after I poted that I noted that it was the sec you ] were talking about. Interesting, isn't it, that Vouvray had such ] problems when Muscadet had such success in '04? ]

Hi Mark,

And welcome back! Vouvray and Muscadet are completely different climates. It's easy to forget just how vast the "Loire Valley" is: between Vouvray and Nantes is a matter of some 220 km. From Pouilly-sur-Loire to Saint-Nazaire is almost 500 km! The area around Nantes is of course coastal an benefits (or suffers as the case may be) from the oceanic influence, whereas Vouvray enjoys a continental climate with colder winters but sunnier summers.

-E

Emery Davis wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@loki.domain.org: ]

So true. And different soils too!!!

RE 2004, I must say that all the Anjou wines that I tasted were also great, with a great maturity. Even the young cabernet franc reds that I had the chance to taste had beautiful tannins and no green notes. The wines from Mark Angeli, tasted last october, were magnificent, from La Lune to Les Fouchardes or Vignes Francaises en foule.

Best,

Santiago

thanks for info, Santiago. I'm at work and no time for googling- am I correct that Loire Valley wines going from sea would be Muscadet area, then Anjou/ Savennieres/CdLayon/Saumur area, etc), then Touraine/Vouvray/Montlouis, area, then Sancerre/Pouilly-Fume/Quincy? Not having tasted extensively, that seems to match the order that I've getting a feel for 2004- excellent Muscadet, very good Anjou, good to so-so Touraine and Vouvray, and so-so Sancerre.

] thanks for info, Santiago. ] I'm at work and no time for googling- am I correct that Loire Valley ] wines going from sea would be Muscadet area, then Anjou/ ] Savennieres/CdLayon/Saumur area, etc), then ] Touraine/Vouvray/Montlouis, area, then Sancerre/Pouilly-Fume/Quincy? ] Not having tasted extensively, that seems to match the order that I've ] getting a feel for 2004- excellent Muscadet, very good Anjou, good to ] so-so Touraine and Vouvray, and so-so Sancerre. ]

That's right, not forgetting St. Nicholas, Chinon in between Saumur and Tours. (Nor, for those fans of sancerre, Menetou-Salon!)

I've had a pretty good feel for 04 from Saumur and Muscadet, but haven't tasted much else yet.

Where is Angeli located, Santiago?

-E

Emery Davis wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@loki.domain.org:

Mark Angeli (La Ferme de la Sansonniere, formerly Domaine de La Sansonniere) is located in the outside of Thouarce, not far from Savennieres. He receives visits on saturdays with an appointment only. If you want to have the perfect saturday, go visit him in the morning and gift yourself a lunch at "Les Tonnelles" at Behouard, and order a bottle of one of his old vintages. We had a beautiful Les Fouchardes 2000 last october. A lovely small village in an isle in the middle of the Loire and a great restaurant (with one Michelin Star).

His Vignes Francaises 2004 en foule (40.000 plants per hectarea) is one of the best wines I have had. Ever.

He usually attends the Angers Fair in February each year, where most of his production is sold (not that he is a big producer), but I am sure you will not get all the amability that characterises him. I am lucky that I always go the Loire in october, when he is about to bottle the wines, and I get a taste of every deposit.

I can provide full contact details if you need them. He does not use an email account, btw.

Best,

Santiago.

Emery, his wines are not to be missed. I believe he is originally from Marseille, and that he has some ungrafted vines. All his wines are remarkable.

] Emery Davis wrote in ] news: snipped-for-privacy@loki.domain.org: ] > ] > I've had a pretty good feel for 04 from Saumur and Muscadet, ] > but haven't tasted much else yet. ] > ] > Where is Angeli located, Santiago? ] ] Mark Angeli (La Ferme de la Sansonniere, formerly Domaine de La ] Sansonniere) is located in the outside of Thouarce, not far from ] Savennieres. He receives visits on saturdays with an appointment only. If ] you want to have the perfect saturday, go visit him in the morning and gift ] yourself a lunch at "Les Tonnelles" at Behouard, and order a bottle of one ] of his old vintages. We had a beautiful Les Fouchardes 2000 last october. A ] lovely small village in an isle in the middle of the Loire and a great ] restaurant (with one Michelin Star). ]

This sounds like a very good plan.

] His Vignes Francaises 2004 en foule (40.000 plants per hectarea) is one of ] the best wines I have had. Ever. ]

Wow, high praise indeed. And from Mike, too (thanks). I will definitely plan on a trip there this spring.

] He usually attends the Angers Fair in February each year, where most of his ] production is sold (not that he is a big producer), but I am sure you will ] not get all the amability that characterises him. I am lucky that I always ] go the Loire in october, when he is about to bottle the wines, and I get a ] taste of every deposit. ] ] I can provide full contact details if you need them. He does not use an ] email account, btw. ]

Yes, please, Santiago. Email direct or post, and thanks in advance.

The fairs usually seem to happen at times that are terribly inconvenient these days, but a saturday visit can certainly be arranged, especially with our fab new autoroute (A28) Angers and vicinities is really quite quick to get to.

cheers!

-E

Mike Tommasi wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@individual.net:

Venga Mike, read what I write ;-)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

Now seriously. Two wines from ungrafted vines. Vignes Francaises and Vignes Francaises en foule.

Best,

S.

Emery Davis wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@loki.domain.org:

Mark Angeli La Ferme de la Sansonniere

49380 Thouarcé Tel/fax. 02 41 54 08 08

Best,

S.

Ayyy, did you write that they were ungrafted? Sorry.

Good news, I went to the ophtalmologist's today, and when I told him I am starting to hold the newspaper further and further away, he told me laughing that I had +1 correction needed, which at my advanced age of

49.9 is not much, so he prescribed glasses jsut to make me happy.

Now I will be able to read your posts better ;-)))

So you went there to see his operation, how does he get 40k plants per hectare? That requires 50cm spacing and 50cm between rows, how does one harvest (manually, I know, but where do you hire stick men?).

I have heard of 14,000 per hectare in Cote Rotie (with their special echalas system), and I have heard of 40,000 at Angeli, but did you ask him how he does it?

¡Hasta pronto!

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