TN: GruVe and Graves, on Mother's Day

May 10, 2004 9 Replies

Saturday Betsy made veal chops with sage from Marcella Hazan, along with Marcella's asparagus/proscuitto bundles,and fettucine with a cream/parmesan sauce. Actually any of the three would have been a nice main course. In honor of the Italian orientation of the meal, I brought up an Arneis, which was corked. %$*(A%**(%



Next try, the 2002 Bründlmayer Langenloiser Grüner Veltliner (Kamptaler Terrassen). Very flowery nose. Moderately acidic, peach fruit with a hint of granny smith apple. There's just a hint of GV white pepper on the finish. Nice wine, just not up to the GV standards of the Nigl Privat. B+



Sunday was Mother's Day, and David and I made Betsy's breakfast,. I offered to cook dinner, too, but she demurred- cooking is something she finds joyful. Our Basset hound had given Betsy a D'Artagnan cookbook for Mother's Day, she (Betsy, not Lucy the hound)decided to make a duck dish from there. The breast is seared then poached. Served over asparagus and lettuce, with a sauce of asparagus, green peppercorns, tarragon, walnut oil, and raspberry vinegar. Then topped with blackberries. How's THAT for non-wine friendly? As this was basically a "drink water then have wine" dish, I didn't worry too much re a match. Just opened a wine I felt like opening, the 1996 La Louvière (Pessac-Léognan). While Betsy was cooking, we sipped a glass of the Bründlamyer, its floral characteristics even more pronounced now. I periodically checked on the Pessac rouge, it started a little tight but was quickly giving its all. Nose of earth and crushed blackberries (or am I smelling the ones on my plate?); palate of blackcurrant fruit. Some tobacco and mineral/gravel emerge with time. Nice, surprisingly mature. I don't really have a clear view of '96 in Graves, they don't seem as hard as the Right Bankers or as supple as the Médocs. I don't think this is going to improve much, B+ Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. Dale



Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply


That's a little unfair, to compare Willi Bründlmayer's basic offering (retailing around 7 Euros here) with Martin Nigl's top notch Grüner (which is more like 15 to 17 Euros).

M.

Sorry Michael, you're right- it's just that I had just posted a note on the Nigl (I seldom have Austrian wines 2 nights apart!).

I actually own more Brundlmayers and Knolls now than I do Nigls. But that might change -I thought the Privat might be the best GV I've ever had- the minerality and definition were astounding, even drinking "too young."

A toast to you, the primary influence in getting me to drink more Austrian wine! Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

But what about Pichler (FX of course)? Surely you won't deprive yourself of his wonderful wines, Dale?

Hear, hear! A cheer for GruVe Michael!

Mark Lipton

I think my wallet deprives me of his wines- I can find Nigl's Privat (Riesling or GV) for $30 or less, don't remember seeing any wine from FX Pichler for less than $45. While I'll occasionally will spend $50 or even $100 on a red I like, for some reason $35-40 seems to be my ceiling for dry whites (a couple of Niellon 1ers is one of the few exceptions I can think of). So like Clos St. Hune or Beaucastel Rousanne VV, FX Pichler wines I mostly taste by hanging around those who do collect them (in a somewhat leechlike manner). Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Thank you, you're most welcome, of course.

Wednesday & Thursday will see me in heavy tasting labour, working ourselves through 434 GVs and Rieslings 2003 with an upper alcohol limit of 12.5%. (We will do those above 12.5% in autumn.)

I can just repeat my invitation: If any regular from this group passes Vienna, I'll be glad to formally share a glass or two. (Informally that would mean a bottle ot two or three.)

M.

Dale, There's a GV by Karl Lagler, the Elisabeth Select 2002, which I know [oh how do I know ;) ] will retail for around $32 in the States...very very good and great for the price. Also, Högl makes some beautiful GV's that don't cost dearly. These are two seasoned vintners whose wines have been compared to the names you know better, but again, since they are not as well known over here they can be had for a better deal. Perhaps M. Pronay would add his two cents about their quality?

-e. winemonger

Both very good producers to look for, although Högl is getting slightly pricey these days.

M.

I know what you mean, but we plan to offer his Steinfeder and Federspiel G.V.'s for around $10.00 here in the States, which seems a reasonable way for folks to give it a go. E.

[Lagler & Högl]

That seems to be *very* reasonable!

M.

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