TN: Lagrein, CdP, Chablis, Macon, Touraine

Jun 11, 2006 2 Replies

With an herbed pork tenderloin, cauliflower with parmesan, and brown rice, the 2003 Kellerei Kaltern "Caldaro" Lagrein (Alto Adige). Slightly lifted nose. Simple and grapey. Puts on a little weight during the night. But there are better Lagreins out there, why waste one's time? B-/C+



Thursday Betsy made a chicken breast dish with asparagus, and we tried the 2004 Pinson Chablis. Chalky minerality, clean pear fruit, actually a very fine effort for a Chablis AC wine. B+/B



Friday was tax day. Our accountant came over and did his thing, and then as is our tradition his wife joined us for dinner. Betsy had marinated hanger steak, with salad and a barley pilaf side. Jim the taxman/mystery novelist likes CdP, so I served the 1998 La Gardine Chateauneuf du Pape. This has opened up substantially in the last year. Ripe raspberry and blackberry fruit overlaying a mediumbodied wine with resolving tannins, there's a little note of anise and lavender. Nice modern (but not especially oaky) CdP. B+/A-



Jim's wife Dana only drinks whites, we finished off the Chablis and then went to the 2004 Joseph Drouhin "Laforet" Mâcon-Villages. Clean if simple wine, pear and apple fruit with a little bit of lemon zest. No complexity, but a good effort for the $7-8 price. B



Tonight Betsy made a ham-lentil soup, seared scallops, with some leftover barley. Wine is the 2004 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon (Touraine). Citrus/grapefruit fruit with a little gooseberry and a lot of grassy notes. Good acidity, clean finish, bright and clean wine. Excellent QPR. B+/B


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Dale, I know that you've expressed great optimism about the '04 vintage in Chablis, and your tastings tend to support that, but I've also read very guarded language in H. Johnson's Pocket Guide about '04. I just recently picked up the '04 Boudin Chablis AC, so I guess that I'll soon be able to add my own views into the mix.

Tax day??? Quarterly payments or something? Good to hear about the '98 La Gardine. I've got a few bottles of it waiting for me, but I think I'd better drink up the '89 La Gardine beforehand ;-) [I think that those are the only two vintages of it in my cellar, a shame in a sense since it was a '78 La Gardine I had in '83 that first turned me on to CdP]

Was this the #5 or not? I liked them both FWIW. Last night we had a bottle of the '04 CRB Gamay with rack of lamb: bright, fruity, with a slightly short and bitter finish, but it was helped quite a bit by the food.

Thanks for the notes! Mark Lipton

While I don't think 2004 is neccessarily a slam-dunk in Chablis, I've been happy with most I've tried.

As to taxes, while mine are simple (salary and a few speeches), Betsy's non-opera work is pretty complicated (lots of concerts, with travel expenses). If we don't get everything done before spring opera starts, we have to file an extension. Our accountant loves us because we don't hound him in March or April.

The CRB was the standard. I too like both the regular and the #5, with the latter being a big bigger/richer/riper.

cheers!

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