A small group gathered last night at La Grolla on the Upper West Side to welcome Rahsaan Maxwell as he passed through town. Really nice group, I enjoyed the conversation. While the wines included no stunners, there were no real dogs either, and all held some interest. Food was mostly good, my lasagna with veal ragu was excellent, the mussels and lamb good (though in a place that has big verging on enormous portions, I was perplexed when the leg of lamb consisted of 3 tiny tournedos).
One nice thing about a party of five is that one can easily revisit each wine during the night, matching with food, trying with more air, etc.
Whites
1989 Denis Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau Sec Welcome to the chalk mine! Intense, high-acid, citric. Chalk. Fruit is on the sour side of grapefruit. Did I mention chalky? A little wax on the nose. This is really all about acids and (chalky) minerality; some are disappointed it's not more complex. It IS a bit of a one-trick pony, but one I'd happily ride. B+2006 Pepiere Muscadet A little warm at first, it shows alarmingly rounded. But as it chills it picks up crispness. It is a big bigger/rounder/riper than some vintages, but well within my comfort range, and a nice accompaniment to the mussels. B+ Reds
1983 Leoville-Poyferre (St Julien) Double-decanted for sediment reasons in the afternoon. Dark fruit (black plum and cassis), a bit of cigarbox. Tannins resolved, fairly low acid but not flabby. Seems less deep than bottles served at home, always a tad iffy carrying older bottles into city and deciding whether or not to decant. I actually take leftovers with me for the train ride home, in the last glass the fruit is fading a bit and getting pruney, but the tobacco, cedar, and lead pencil notes are much stronger. I'll say B/B+ on this bottle, from a wine I've gone A- on before.1999 La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino My other contribution. Not decanted in advance, maybe should have, it got better with air. Rather fruit-driven, somewhat floral nose, big ripe black cherry, some moderate tannins, no obtrusive oak. The flower notes fade and it gets a little leathery with time. Probably in middle of the style spectrum, tilting slightly towards traditonal. Nice with the veal ragu. B+
2001 Fourrier "Cherbaudes" Gevrey-Chambertin 1er I both looked forward to this (because I like Fourrier) and worried that it would be closed down. At first it seemed rather light for a Gevrey 1er, though it did have that Gevrey meatiness. But it quickly picked up weight with air,and surprised me with its fruitiness. Good cherry and red plum fruit, some floral notes, good length. Elegant for Gevrey. Final glass is probably my favorite red of evening. B+/A-1997 Sorrell "La Greal" Hermitage We debated whether this showed Hermitage typicity, but I confess to not drinking enough Hermitage to know. Riper low acid style of Syrah, blackberry fruit with a bit of leather and stony mineral on finish. Maybe not classic Northern Rhone, but good length and I enjoyed. B+
2004 Paris "Granit 60" Cornas Very forward and grapey. Very primary. I just really couldn't get into this, though there were no flaws, and I think everyone at table liked better than I did. B- Dessert: 2003 La Coume du Roy Maury Not sure I've ever had a Maury before. I expected something a bit port- like, but instead this reminded me of PX sherry. Thick, heavy, sweet. We debated whether this was dried fig or raisin, eventually we all met in the middle, though I held out for the dominance of the fig. Interesting to taste. A bit oxidative, quite long. But a tablespoon or so is plenty for me, just not my style. B-Really nice to meet Rahsaan and Cliff, and to see Jeff and Arv again. Fun night.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency