Rkatsiteli 2005 GC Tsarapa

Aug 23, 2007 6 Replies

Hello When speaking of Old world vs New world, we may be a bit parochial. There are worlds so old that they are mentioned in the Exodus (the one in the Bible, not the novel by Leon Uris) and you would have to have the experience of J Murray Freeman to expound on them with some authority. Oak? Barrels? Ha! Amforas were good enough for g'g'g'g'g'g'pappy, and they are good enough for us. I am, of course, refrring to georgia - not the one on the mind of Ray Charles, but the old kingdom in Caucasus, where, apparently, wine making was first effectuated, and Noa ... anyway, you probably learned that in Bible class. Georgia has some very archaic vines, and in all likelyhood is a repository of some rather odd and unusual varieties. The one in question here, however, is in no way unusual - at one time, it was the most planted white grape in the world! Gorbachev put a stop to that, grubbing up most of it, thereby surrendering the title to Airen (in La Mancha, Spain). The name means (according to Wikipedia) "red stem", which to me brings Chasselas to mind, as it also has red stems. When making wine in Georgia, special care is taken with skin contact, as in, a great deal of it-. Basically, you crush the grapes in an earthen jar, or amfora, and let them ferment while resting on the mash. This is regardless of whether the wine is red or white. Mike TOmmassi had brought a bottle of Rk 2005 to our place this summer, but circumstances precluded it being drunk at the time. Instead it was the first wine, the aperitif, even, in one of our tasting groups, and was served with cup cakes (with black olives), and spring rolls fileld with a lightly grilled salmon tartare. [C] Deep bronze, with some turbidity [N] Abricot, mostly, very slight oxidation notes, but mostly abricots - so much that Mårten who is arguably the best nose in the group suspected a Ch Grillet, or some other slightly idiosyncratical viognier [P] An asperity you rarely encounter in a white wine dominates in the mouth. It is completely dry, and has some firyness, with an alcohol content of 14 %. The acidity plays a definite second fiddle to the asperity. It is also slightly nutty, and the abricot is reflected on the palate.



This appears to be a white wine made accroding to principles without counterpart in the rest of the world -notwithstanding, it is interesting in the best meaning of the world, it is a fun wine, and it is quite enjoyable.



I would consider serving it with grilled haloumi, or some shellfish with much taste - crab, e g.



Recommended.



Cheers



Nils



PS Thank you Mike!


It's like being there, Nils !

Glad you enjoyed it. I bought it in Italy at my friend (and IHV member) Franco Solari's restaurant in Conscenti (near Portofino), he described this one as the most accessible of a dozen wines made by that same producer.

cheers

Mike

Nils Gustaf L> Hello

Fascinating, Nils! I have steered clear of Georgian wines owing to their nasty reputation, so this is good news. Regarding this style, have you ever tasted the amphora-aged wines of Gravner or Radikon from Friuli - Venezia? I have no idea if they're at all similar to what you just had, but they probably come closer than most.

Mark Lipton

Josko Gravner went to Georgia to find his amphorae...

Commmandaria from Crete was matured in huge earthware jars, as it was in Homeric days, until recent times. Most is matured now in concrete tanks and is just a shadow of this wine, one of the greatest and most long-lived in the world, at one time. The classic method uses Mavron and Xynisteri grapes, and is a blend of both red and white grapes. The best traditional wines used the Mana system, in which the oldest jar is never allowed to empty, but filled up with somewhat younger wines. The grapes are spread out in the sun to concentrate sugar. Some of the best traditional wines were so thick that they could be scraped from the sides of the container with a knife. If any traditional great Commandaria is still sold, I never have been able to find it in over

30 years of searching in the US and at auctions. In his 1981 3rd edition Encyclopedia of Wines and Spirits, Alexis Lichine mentions that guest of some shippers were sometimes allowed to taste classic Commandaria a century old. It was described as dark, velvety, mellow, and with a toasted sweetness of the sun-baked grapes. Apparently commercial, cheap, Commandaria had some sales in the UK in recent times, and some older wine writers from the UK sometimes called it communion wine.

"cwdjrxyz" skrev i meddelandet

Sorry, that should be Cyprus, I think ... I think the earliest description of making wine in this way would be in Hesiode's "Days and Work" - I found it, in Italian translation, on the backlabel of a Passito di Pantelleria lo these many moons. It was EXACTLY how it was described - the drying, the crushing, the feremntation in earthenware jars - "and through this, the Gods make us much joyfulness" if I remember correctly, I have lost the original text.

Cheers

Nils

Yes, and I had Lichine's Encyclopedia open turned to the Cyprus section when I wrote this! Why I wrote Crete, I do not know. Perhaps Freud or some of his early followers would be able to explain this. I have never been to Cyprus or Crete or met anyone from there.

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