TN: mostly Rioja at a Basque place in Chelsea

Suzanne arranged for an excellent dinner at Txikito in Chelsea last night. Theme was “Spanish”, but turned into almost all Rioja. We had a nice ro om to ourselves, with pleasant service and excellent food. The restaurant i s a find.

We started with a few pintxos (snacks): croquettes, Serrano ham and anchovy , pork loin with tetilla.

White Rioja Flight

1985 Marques de Murrieta Rioja I thought there was a Reserva seal on back, but someone said just basic whi te. Quite oxidized, with some dirty odors to boot. C-

1989 Marques de Murrieta Rioja Reserva Again some oxidative notes, but more in line with what I expect from old wh ite Rioja. Nuts, generous lemon fruit, coffee beans. Better with some air. B

Rose

2000 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Rosado Gran Reserva I liked more than neighbors. Pretty classic LdH rose. Citrus peel, onion sk in, nuts, strawberries. B+

Next dish was amazing -king oyster mushroom carpaccio, with crumbled Roncal & Marcona almonds. Not sure I would have guessed mushroom if I hadn’t kn ow, but delicious There was also a nice stuffed pepper.

On to the Reds. First flight was a pair of beauties, with distinctly differ ent styles.

1964 Riojanos Monte Real Rioja Reserva Powerful, full, rich, shockingly young red fruit, with a spicy anise edge. A- . 1964 Gomez Cruzado Rioja Gran Reserva Honorable Light and elegant, weightless, with an exotic nose that reminded me of “R ussian tea” (a 1970s concoction of Tang, cloves, cinnamon) in a good way. A-

Next dish was shrimp and ham in a squid ink sauce

1976 CVNE Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva Focused, long, smoky, great texture. A-/B+

1978 Marques de Murrieta Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Rich, earthy, young, very good. B+

Some nicely flavored lamb

1985 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Gran Reserva Elegant, very herby, seems to be drinking well. B+

1987 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia Gran Reserva Has more in reserve than the ‘85 Tondonia, well-balanced, spicy, long. B+ /A-

Last savory course was great suckling pig on a chimichurri sauce

90s- this was the brett flight, with a little leather in the Bosconia, some noticable barnyard in the Tondonia, and the Val Sotillo just within my tol erance limits.

1991 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia Gran Reserva Saddle leather, forest floor, beautiful red fruits, a bit “Burgundian.” A-/B+

1991 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Gran Reserva High toned, some barnyard, solid structure. B+

1994 Ismael Arroyo Val Sotillo Gran Reserva (Ribera del Duero) Noticable brett, but not to much for me, raspberry and cherry, feels fully mature. B+/B

Nano brought out a bonus bottle

1994 Pesquera Ripe, fruit driven, soft, getting a tiny bit clipped, but tasty wine. B

Really successful night, except for the 1985 white I’d happily drink any of these.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a pa rty where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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DaleW
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