TN: nice wife, not so nice Pomerol

Wednesday was our third anniversary, and we had plans to try out to a local restaurant. I thought my plans had hit an iceberg when a volunteer tanked on me, but another friend came through to ensure I could enjoy dinner with Betsy rather than head to the city. Between the Yankees game and the debate, the cute restaurant was half-filled so we could have a quiet dinner. Excellent pumpkin soup, decent pate, good lamb. Only Betsy's duck was truly lacking- how can one make bland roast duck (I think they literally didn't season at all)? Wine list features rather high markups, several wines I owned were 3X or more what I paid. But I spotted a $68 1998 Pomerol - not a wine I knew, but not a bad price for a Pomerol from a strong vintage. I ordered, warning Betsy it was likely to be closed at first. I was half-convinced from other markups they would bring out a Lalande de Pomerol, but this was indeed a Pomerol- the 1998 Ch. Beausèjour De Bonalgue.
So the question is, how does one make a dilute Pomerol in a year like 1998? Modest red plum fruit, light tannins, weak midpalate, short finish. Over a 90 minute period it filled out slightly, a hint of spice and leather and with a raspberry tartness to the fruit that was more appealing. By the end it would have been a convincing 1999 Lalande de Pomerol that I would have thought an average deal if it had been $35 on a list. It goes to show one the dangers of a Bordeaux one has never heard of. By the end this was a B- on my easy scale.
The wine wasn't too exciting, but my dining companion was. A good night, despite the wine.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency Dale
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