Saturday morning found Jean, baby and myself guests of some friends at the Williams-Selyem winery in the Russian River Valley for their semi-annual release party.
2003 Chardonnay RRV ($32) nose: butter, alcohol and stones palate: buttery on entry, with a creamy mouthfeel and hints of pineappleNot my style of Chardonnay, alas. Rather undistinguished.
2003 Pinot Noir Central Coast ($29, 14.0% ABV) n: bright cherry fruit, with buttery hints and a bit hot p: slightly tannic entry, with firm acids, more butter and tart cherryish flavors2003 Pinot Noir Russian River ($42, 14.2% ABV) n: berries, cherry, hints of cedar p: tart entry, deep berry and cherry fruit, medium body, long finish
2003 Pinot Noir Westside Road Neighbors ($62, 14.3% ABV) n: dark cherry, minerals, slightly alcoholic P: rich, dark fruit, slightly oaky, long finishOf the three Pinots, the RRV was our favorite, as it had great varietal character and fruit without being overdone. Our friends preferred the Westside Road.
At lunch (crabcakes, crab salad and crab dip), our friends opened:
'91 J. Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet c: golden yellow n: oak and sulfur, initially, turning into minerals and stone fruits as the wine opened up p: minerals, apple, lemon
Completely fresh and alive, this 13-year old wine was an eye-opener for several of us. Jean, who normally objects strenuously to aged white wine, had no problem with this wine at all, finding it youthful. Although not profound, it was an absolutely delicious Chardonnay with more years ahead of it.
Mark Lipton