In the Spring of 2001, talk began here on alt.food.wine about meeting in New Zealand for a tour of the local wineries hosted by St. Helier, our denizen on the ground there. Plans were made, only to be thrown into complete chaos by the tragic incidents of 9/11. In the end, 3 of us -- Ian and Jacquie Hoare and I -- made the trip in 12/01, and a grand time we had with St. Helier. For background, see:
This year, by chance, Ian, Jacquie and I all reconverged on New Zealand and so decided to continue our "field trip" of a decade ago. To that end, today I traveled to Queenstown, where Ian and Jacquie met me and from where we commenced our two days of winery visits.
First stop was Chard Farm Winery in Gibbston Valley, just outside of Queenstown. Chard Farm was one of the first wineries established in Central Otago and is reached by means of a winding, gravel road that snakes through the hills overlooking the river gorge. Ian regaled us with a recounting of their previous visit, in which he encountered a bus on the one-lane gravel road overlooking a treacherous precipice. Fortunately, this time there were no buses and a wider road. We entered the small tasting room with 4 other people and were attentively looked after.
2008 Closeburn Chardonnay n: minerals, yeast, lemon p: good acidity, lactic acid
This wine was aged in stainless steel and so saw no oak. Quite like a Petit Chablis in character, it showcased the more mineral aspects of Chardonnay.
2009 Judge and Jury Chardonnay n: muted, with a hint of minerality p: decent acid, slight hint of lactic acid, structured
This was their oak-aged Chardonnay, though the barrels used were all used French oak. Overall, I found it a bit lacking and not as interesting as the INOX version.
2011 Pinot Gris (3.5 g/L sugar) n: spicy, stones p: medium body, moderate acidity
Quite a lovely example of Pinot Gris, this was very restrained, just barely off-dry with a very aromatic nose.
2009 Gewürztraminer (15 g/L) n: muted, slightly spicy, lychee p: medium-light, off dry
2009 Riesling (16 g/L) n: petrol p: light, citrus, off dry, long finish
2010 Vipers Vineyard Riesling (38 g/L) n: slightly mineral p: white peach, off dry
Both of the Rieslings were very well done, with the latter being heavier and riper smelling.
2010 River Run Pinot Noir n: slightly hot, light cherries p: dry, thin, bitter finish
2009 Mata-Au Pinot Noir n: cherries, rose petals p: decent acidity, a bit hollow mid-palate
2009 The Viper Pinot Noir n: cherries, hint of smoke p: firm acidity, deep fruit, tannic finish
Of the three Pinot Noirs, only the last was really of serious interest. The River Run was their "easy drinking" blend, but didn't have the depth of fruit to hold interest, whereas the Viper was the complete deal. Overall, we left with the impression that they were more successful with white than red wines.
After an abortive attempt to visit Gibbston Valley winery (too touristy and commercial) we had lunch at Wild Earth winery. Ian and I shared an absolutely fabulous lunch of foods prepared by smoking over oak chips paired with Wild Earth wines.
Our aperitif was:
2009 Riesling (13 g/L) n: slight hint of petrol p: crisp acidity, peachy fruit, minerals
With hot smoked salmon on a celery root/apple salad:
2011 Pinot Noir Rosé n: strawberries and dusty rock p: light, bright berry fruit
With smoked green lip mussels with a prawn aioli:
2010 "Chelsea" Riesling (46 g/L) n: muted p: one dimensional, simple, sweet
With chili-seasoned chicken on a wild thyme stick:
2011 Pinot Gris (9 g/L) n: spicy, earthy p: medium body, off dry
With lamb with mushroom and caramelized onion:
2009 Pinot Noir n: lactic acid, spice, dark fruit p: medium body
With ground venison with tomato sauce, mushrooms and caramelized onion:
2009 Pinot Noir "Deep Cove" n: minerals, cranberries, tart cherries p: firm acidity, deep fruit, great focus
As an added bonus:
2009 Pinot Noir Reserve "Earth and Sky" n: deep, dark sappy fruit p: vivid acidity, tight, deep fruit, tannic finish
Across the board, the wines were very impressive and the food matches with lunch were well chosen and at times inspired (the rosé with the smoked salmon was a highlight). The trio of Pinot Noirs were all good (astute readers may note that the '09 Pinot Noir was the wine we served Ian and Jacquie at our home) but the Deep Cove and the Earth and Sky were standouts. For near term drinking, I'll take the Deep Cove, but the Reserve is a wine that'll reward 5-10 years of age.
After lunch, we headed to Bannockburn where we visited two more wineries. First on the list was Bannock Brae.
2009 Dry Riesling (8.5 g/L) n: hint of petrol p: crisp acidity, citrus, mineral finish
2010 Cathy's Rosé (Pinot Noir) n: strawberry p: moderate acidity, candied fruit, slightly sweet finish
2009 Goldfields Pinot Noir n: candied cherries p: straightforward, foursquare Pinot Noir
2009 Barrel Selection Pinot Noir n: sappy, dark cherry p: decent acidity, cherries, slightly lactic, moderately tannic finish
A small mom-and-pop operation run by a very nice couple, the winery is situated in a lovely corner of Central Otago. The wines, alas, were uninspiring for the most part, though competently made.
Our final stop of the day was next foor at Akarua.
2010 Chardonnay n: minerals, citrusy fruit p: slightly oaky, decent acidity
2011 Riesling n: hint of petrol, stone fruit p: light, refreshing, off dry
The vines for this wine are only 4 years old (they replaced Shiraz vines that never ripened) and the wine refelected that youth in being light, friendly and uncomplicated. The wine was varietally correct, though.
2010 Pinot Gris n: spice, minerals p: crisp acidity, juicy fruit, medium-light body
2011 Pinot Noir Rosé (13.5% ABV) n: strawberries, stones p: juicy acidity, gooseberry
2011 Pinot Noir "Rua" n: not much there p: decent acidity, moderate fruit
2009 Pinot Noir Reserve n: intense, sappy, deep cherry fruit p: good acidity, cherry, cranberry, tannic finish
All the wines here were well made and varietally correct. Of the Pinot Noirs, the Reserve bottling was the clear standout.
With a light dinner, we had two wines from Rippon Vineyards in Wanaka.
2011 Sauvignon Blanc n: grassy, grapefruit p: medium body, firm acidity, long finish
2009 Pinot Noir n: red cherries, rose petals p: velvety smooth, medium body, balanced acidity
Both wines were quite nice, reflecting the cooler climate found at Lake Wanaka.
Overall, a very fun day of wine and food in Central Otago. Ian and Jacquie, who had visited here 10 years ago, found the wines much improved over their earlier encounter. All of the wines we tried were well-made, usually from vines that were 10 years or older. Tomorrow we'll try the wines of Cromwell and Bannockburn.
Mark Lipton