TN: Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett w/ham

Apr 13, 2004 8 Replies

Betsy had ham cravings after hearing tales of Easter hams, and so we had one tonight. She did a sweet glaze, and so I opted (instead of dry rosé , my usual "go to" ham choice) to go with the 2002 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer). Pretty flowery nose, lemon and peach fruit dancing lightly over a delicate framework of acidity and slatey minerality. Maybe not the best match, but ok. In retrospect a beefier Kab would have been a better choice than this ethereal Riesling. But this was so damn delicious that's just a quibble. Beautifully balanced wine, very fine. I've now how the Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Qba and Kab, both very tasty, if the bottom of his line is like that what are the more expensive offerings like? A- on my easy scale.



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. Dale



Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply


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Himmelreich

Good stuff! (I'm looking at an empty bottle of his 02 Domprobst kabinett, rather than the Himmlreich, from a couple of months ago.)

I find that well-poised well-made Rieslings go with many, but especially with savory or delicately savory foods -- smoked trout, or cold cuts, to repeat an example I posted elsewhere; -- I would worry about a sweet sauce muting such a kabinett -- but I did not try that combo myself so I certainly don't know. I also wonder if these "bottom" wines, in price and concentration, may offer more food flexible food pairings than the richer ones do; those after all are heavier, and they seem to have more residual sugar at a given Prädikat level than they did several years ago.

Great stuff, the fine Rieslings. Fantastic values.

Max

(I use a pass-fail grading system myself -- progressive school, builds self-esteem in the wines ;-) -- this one definitely passed.)

Oh, I agree the Kabinett (and Qba- don't discount non-Prädikat wines from good producers) are better suited for most foods. I think in this case a better match would have been a Kabinett with more body - maybe an '01 vntage, or something from the Rheinhessen. My speculations re the better Schaefers were a generality, not as a match for this meal.

Domprobst is supposed to be a "better" vineyard than Himmelreich, I'm going to try and pick up one soon.

thanks. Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

I also agree, that the wines you have tasted are very fine. I want to recommend you Riesling from north of Baden. They did not have so much body, than the wines you tasted but there are a lot of cheaper. There are really good for fish and asparagus (i hope this is the right word). I can recommend some vineyards if you want me to.

regards

Michael

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According to Wein-Plus in Germany that was a 85 point wine (which by their scale is Excellent). fine value at 7.60Euros. However, his ratings have dropped lately, I've seen. Maybe somewhat overextended operations - but I've not talked with him for a couple of years... His Graacher Domprobst Auslese 1992 (Auction wine) is one of the very best I've ever had... a stupendously concentrated wine in every respect with a zippy acidity to boot, you'd want to sip and weep, weep and sip again... :-) Anders

Michael,

by "north of Baden" do you mean "the northern part of the Baden region", or "from the area which is north of the Baden region"?

The only Baden wine I've experienced was a rather regrettable pinot noir (spätburgunder?) , but I'd happily try more if they were available near me.

One of the problems with less known regions is that they are not generally well represented by importers.

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

I ment the northern part of the Baden region - sorry about my bad english.

Maybe there is possibility send you a taste - pack from the vineyards from a friend of mine. You can see at

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Michael,

I'm in US, and the economics of international shipments make small private shipments not cost-effective. But if Herr Hagenbucher gets a US importer, I'll be happy to track down his wines to try. Thanks! Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Dear Dale,

Mr. Hagenbucher has a US importer. I will go to him and try to inform me about the adress. I hope we find a way that you can taste some wines from Weingut Hagenbucher.

regards

Michael

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