TN: SOBER goes to Spain

Mar 21, 2007 6 Replies

Last night it was SOBER (Several Oenophiles Being Extremely Rambunctious) night, and we gathered at Drew's house.



We were greeted with the 1998 Charles Ellner Brut Nice medium-weight Champagne, lots of fresh baked biscuit aroma, clean apple fruit and a good finish. Very nice. B+/A-



Theme of the evening was Spain. With all of the hype and discussion after the last Wine Advocate, it was fun to taste some of the discussed wines (as well as others).



There was an assortment of cheeses as well as olives on the table, then a long series of courses started arriving. For the whites there was tomato bread:


1995 Lopez y Heredia "Gravonia" Rioja Blanco Full and pretty nose of flowers and nuts, with a vanilla accent. There's general agreement that palate doesn't measure up to the nose - someone says "flat" and I think that sums it up. Great nose though, enough to get it a B


2006 Pirineos Mesache (I didn't note region on this) Floral and musky, round on the palate. Apparently has some Gewurz, and it shows. Rather tropical fruit, nice different white. B



With a Spanish tortilla/frittata and the most garlicky aioli I've ever run across (luckily I like garlic), we started on the reds:


2003 Rottlan Torra "Amadis" (Priorat) Dark and full, big forward dark fruit- blackberries and black plums. Big powerful wine, but not ungainly. B+


2004 Mas Doix "Salanques" (Priorat) More red fruit driven, lots of oak, very ripe but with more acidity than one might expect. A bit much for me, but tasty - probably a big hit with lovers of luxury CdP cuvees. B


2003 El Nido (Jumilla) If previous wine was a bit too much for my tastes, this one is off the charts. Too dense and overextracted for my palate, feeling incredibly heavy in the mouth. Drinking it reminds me of drinking cassis neat- I can't do either. Others comments range from "dry port" to "cough syrup." D (Mark comments that it is better when consumed next to the salad with a high acid vinaigrette, he's right, but that puts it in C territory for me, not a buy at $100+!).

A big bowl of gazpacho followed, with



2003 Termes (Toro) This is not as oaky as I expected, but the fruit has a definite stewed overripe bent to me. This is a nice mineral & lead pencil note, but it's drowned by the fruit. C+


2004 Numanthia (Toro) More vanilla oak notes than the Termes, big and extracted but the black fruits show a bit fresher than its companion. Big ripe tannins, this isn't my style but its not the caricature that the El Nido is. B


2004 Dominio de Atauta (I think this was Ribera del Duero) A lot of oak here again, but with fresher fruit and brighter acidity than some of the preceding wines. Seems almost graceful in comparison, but I found the finish surprisingly short for a big wine. B

and with the paella:


2000 Artadi "Pagos Viejos" Rioja This is still somewhat oak dominated, with big round fruit and some distinct chocolate notes. A little oaky for me, but a pretty good example of modern styled Rioja. B/B+


1999 La Rioja Alta Ardanza Very fresh, clean red fruit , bright acidity, oak present but in background, and with a nice cedary bent to it. Probably my favorite red of night. B+


1996 Marques de Tomares Gran Reserva Rioja Medium-bodied, with lots of cedary oak over a body of red fruit. Not quite as bright as the Ardanza, but a nice enough wine. B


1994 Marqués de Tomares Reserva de la Familia Rioja (from magnum) unfortunately corked



With a chocolate cake: La Sacristia de Romate Oloroso Nutty and caramelly, I liked but didn't take notes. B



Fun evening. Some of the wines weren't to my tastes, but that's part of the learning experience. Thanks Drew.



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Sounds like an interesting tasting. I had been interested in the El Nido until I saw the price and with your notes sounds like a no buy at all.

Well, there are certainly plenty of people who love the style, just a matter of preferences. But no one in our group (even biggest fan of big modern wines) went for this. My only regret was that our most doctrinaire traditionalist (John Gilman, View from the Cellar) was on a trip to Europe, would have loved to have seen his notes on this one (he has a section on "Roadkill" in some issues).

"DaleW" wrote in news:1174484455.458677.126410 @y80g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

I have never managed to like this wine. Too oxidized for my taste.

The region is D.O. Somontano. Retails here at 4,5 euros and is a wine to be consumed young.

I have had a wonderful bottle of a prior vintage. I am not very fond of very strong wines from Priorat and thought this Salanques had an elegant character. The wine I tasted would be a solid A for me.

I cannot understand this trend to make overwines (over-ripe, over- extracted, over-oaked). They are trying to impress professional tasters instead of providing pleasure to wine drinkers. Terroir gets lost and all you taste is syrup.

Please, do not take me wrong, but the only think you should be drinking with gazpacho is a good Manzanilla or a good Fino. Pairing a gazpacho with wines from Toro or Ribera del Duero does not make much sense to me. Sorry if I seem harsh, I do not want anybody to think I want to set an offense.

I have had Numanthia in the first vintages (1998 and 1999) and never liked it. For me it is yet another overwine.

I have been following this wine for all its history. It started in 2000 with a wonderful wine, which was even better in 2001. 2002 was somehow difficult (and I passed) and 2003 I thought it was too hot (self- suggestion?) but I had the higher expectations for this 2004. I had a bottle and thought it was not very expressive. Correct but not the enjoyable wine it had be in 2000 and 2001.

In 2002, the winery played the game of taking the best parcels out of the basic wine, and started bottling "Valdegatiles", "La Mala" and "Llanos del Almendro" as single vineyards. I have been lucky enough to have drunk a great bottle of La Mala 2002 and an astonishingly good "Valdegatiles"

2003. But the basic "Dominio de Atauta" 2002 and 2003 were not as good as they should.

I have another bottle of 2004 to be tasted in the next weeks and have purchased two bottles of Llanos del Almendro 2004 for a special occasion.

BTW, the enologist for the winery is from Chinon (Bertrand Sourdais) and the vineyards of the winery are in Soria, as east in Ribera as they can be, and at a very high altitude, which explains why DOminio de Atauta is usually fresher than the typical Ribera del Duero.

I have enjoyed this wine, and would say B+/A- ;-)

This is surprising. Oloroso with chocolate!!! Was it a sweet oloroso? (oxymoron, some would say).

Best,

Santiago

I've had the Termes, the Termanthia and the Numanthia. Just larger iterations of each other and I agree with your assessment. Too much of everything. I was gifted a few bottles of each from a local distributor and was told to give them at least five years. I'll report back!

Santiago, The Gravonia actually didn't show as many oxidative notes as other vintages (1991,l think 1987) I've tried. Still, any Lopez Heredia is likely to be a matter of taste.

Thanks for info re the Somontano. I think Drew paid a LOT more than that.

As to the gazpacho- believe me, no offense, I didn't do the pairing! I'm not a big sherry drinker, but think of gazpacho as calling for a lighter white or maybe sparkling. I don't know any red that could stand up to the acidity (though maybe a rose). I was actually kind of stunned when the big bowl arrived in front of me. I basically ate some with San Pellegrino, then had some bread and aged gouda with the reds.

As to the Dominio de Atauta, I think lots of us have watched as favorite Rhones started putting best juice into the luxury cuvees, at the expense of the base bottling.

The oloroso indeed have some sweetness - not Pedro X sweetness, but nowhere near dry.

Thanks for info!

It's certainly POSSIBLE these will age well. :)

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