TN: 2K Bdx, 98 CdP, Spanish wines, more

Jul 21, 2003 4 Replies

Betsy had left for California, teenagers were congregating at someone else's house for a change, so I was alone Friday with some leftover chicken. So I popped a 2000 Ch. Canon Moueix (Fronsac) in 375. Gave it an hour before dinner, then had a glass (or two). Nice if somewhat reticent nose of red berries, mild red fruit in the mouth, with a little sweet oak edge. Pleasant but uninspiring. I take a break for an hour or two, walking back to old apartment to pack last few odds and ends. On return I decided to have the final glass - whoa. The reticent nose has become quite extroverted, raspberries with flowers and a little vanilla. Deep kirsch flavors on the palate, hint of leather and rocks. The 375 is about $7 at Zachy's on sale, I'm picking up more. A-



Saturday I invited a few friends to watch me try to master the intricacies of gas grilling. We started with the 2000 Trimbach Alsace Riesling. Wet stones, apple and pear fruit with a hint of lemon, nice crisp wine worth every penny of its modest $13 tag. B+



With a mixed grill of steak and sausages, salad caprese, "Mexican" rice salad, and corn, I had decanted two reds, the 2000 Epicurea de Chateau Martinat (Cotes de Bourg) and the 1998 La Gardine Chateauneuf du Pape. The Bordeaux was full and smooth, on the soft side, with rich dark berry and plum fruit, a hint of toasty oak, good finish. B+ The CdP had deep blackberry fruit, fairly lush, with some animal sweat and meat aromas. Also a B+



We kept with the reds as we moved to the cheeses, a nice pair from Bobolink Dairy that I had picked up at the farmers' market (a semi-soft fairly mild one called Frolic, and a much more aggressive one known as Tarte de Vache). Midway through we switched to the NV RL Buller & Son Fine Tokay. Raisins and toffee, very sweet and very soft. These are really better by themselves than with any food. A good value in dessert wines at $11/375, but not special (I think I slightly prefer their Muscat). B



That afternoon I had attended a tasting at Zachy's of the wines of Tempranillo Importers :


2002 Txacoli (Getaaariako Txakolina) (10.99) Dry,crisp citrusy flavorful wine from Basque country. Different, and a nice deal. B


2001 Martin Códax 2000 Albariño (Rías Baixas) (9.99) Medium acidity, a little flavorless. B-


2002 Nora Albariño (11.99) Crisper, lemon and spice, nice finish. B


2002 Naia (Rueda) (7.99) Herbs and grass, gooseberries and grapefruit. If served blind I might think this a particularly aromatic and slightly funky NZ Sauvignon. Bright acidity. I buy at this price, good picnic wine. B+


2001 Vega Sindoa Chardonnay Barrel Fermented (Navarra) Pleasant reasonably balanced inexpensive Chard, B-


2001 Pago Florentino (La Mancha) (12.99) Soft and ripe, a bit oaky, ok no better. B-


1999 Allende Rioja (14.99) Also somewhat international, but obviously very well-made. Too much vanilla-ey oak, but nice sweet fruit and mouth-filling body. Would be very popular at parties. B/B+


1998 Muga Reserva Rioja (12.99) Again a lot of oak, but with a more classic cigarbox profile. Not one to really age, but a nice Rioja for now. B+


2000 Sierra Cantabria Coleccion Privada Rioja (26.99) Good acidic balance despite very ripe fruit. A little more than I wanted to spend, though. B+


1995 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva (Rioja) (34.99) Elegance more than power, deep velvety red fruit with overtones of leather and cedar. A-


2000 Altos de Luzon (Jumilla) (12.99) Tannic, yet with deep fruity flavors. Lots of oak. Not really my cuppa, but would make a nice BBQ wine. B


2000 Emilio Moro (Ribera del Duero) (23.99) Round, big, somewhat tannic and a bit oaky, ok. B


2001 Bcrux (Mendoza, Argentina) (19.99) An interloper, but mostly Tempranillo. Unexciting B-


2001 Mas Igneus F.A. 206 (Priorat) (12.99) Big, tannic, with a lot of spice and herb. Needs a little time, but pretty nice. Good buy. B+


2001 Finca Sandoval (Manchuela) ($24.99) $25 Spanish syrah? I try with scepticism. Hey, not bad actually. Downright good even. Medium tannins, blackberry fruit with some dirt and herbs, integrated oak, needs time. B+/A-


My usual disclaimer: I'm a pretty easy grader, basically A is a very good wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.



Dale



Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply


Sounds like quite a romantic evening, Dale! :P

Pursuant to earlier conversations here, I find it interesting that the Gardine wasn't shut down. The '98 is the first Gardine I've put in the cellar since the '89 (which is still there). I usually find them a bit on the simple side, but in great vintages they represent a good value -- if not quite in the same league as Le Vieux Donjon or Font de Michelle.

I agree with you that Finca Allende is a bit "international," but to me that has nothing to do with the vanilla-ey oak, as the tradition in Rioja is to use American oak barrels for aging. Rather, it's the youthful, tannic nature of the wine (and the "early" release date) that characterize it to me as non-traditional.

Case in point of what I expect from a traditional Rioja.

As usual, thanks for the interesting notes, Dale.

Mark Lipton

That makes perfect sense, Dale. Personally, I think I'll let mine sit a few years longer and begin to work on those '89s in the mean time...

Gotcha!! As orginally stated, it was a bit of a non sequitur, but I get the point now. Thanks for the clarification.

Mark Lipton

Hi Mark (S):

I get the impression that Martin Codax is a big producer, so gets a lot of press.

I think a little time would do it good. Enjoy!

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

: >Actually, the oak was less what I was referring to than the low acidity/ripe : >> fruit profile. : >

: >Gotcha!! As orginally stated, it was a bit of a non sequitur, but I get the : >point : >now. Thanks for the clarification.

: BTW, even though some houses have used a lot of new oak for many years (before : Parkerization became a term), my favorite Rioja styles are the real old-style - : houses like Lopez de Heredia- very long aging in older oak casks. At LdH, both : the Tondonia and Bosconia GRs can last 30, 40, 50 years. Fantastic stuff. Not : cheap, but a lot less pricy than any other red wine with that kind of track : record. : Dale

Dale and others, the old-styled Rioja's DO have lots of oak from sitting in them for many years, but the oak 'marries' into the wine and is not used only for effect (or what I call 'frosting'). The result is a sweetness of being that simply is better than the sum of its parts.

Mark S

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