TN: 1989 Barolos meet 4 white truffles (plus Champagne, dessert wines)

very nice group assembled at Ben and Wendy's lovely G'wich Village apartme nt for a 1989 Barolo/White Truffle dinner. We were greeted with smoked salm on (Scottish, from Russ and Daughters, as good as I've ever had) canapes an d a couple of Champagnes

2004 Jacquesson Avize Champ Cain Champagne This I loved- crisp, minerally, deep, long. A-

2002 Bollinger Grand Annee Champagne Very well made, just in a larger-framed style than my preference. B/B+

2004 Louis Michel "Grenouilles" Chablis GC I thought it was just mute from being in ice, but it never got expressive. Some thought it sharp, but I thought moderate acids. It's white! B-/C+

To table for a great selection of salumi, and the first flight of 1989 Baro lo

1989 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra Red fruit, tar, flowers, this surprised me how much I liked. B+/A-

1989 Giovanni Manzone Barolo Le Gramolere Good, rich, lots of cocoa and espresso, most people's favorite, but I thoug ht a bit too much glossy oak still. But has lots of time left. B+

1989 Aldo e Riccardo Seghesio Barolo Vigneto la Villa Flatter, a little pruney note, B-

Ben had made tajarin (egg pasta), served over butter and then the truffle f airies descended with their shavers. A generous portion of truffle, then th ey returned halfway through to liven it up with more.

1989 Luigi Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda (magnum) This is not the Oddero I'm familar with. Very nice showing- full, rich, som ewhat tannic still, B+/A-

1989 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco Ripe, elegant, overachiever. A-/B+

1989 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc I thought this oaky and roasted, but there is a good core underneath. B-/B

Third Flight

1989 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato Just wow. Deep, complex, masculine but not at all heavy. Black cherries, he rbs, floral notes. Tangy acids and supporting (but not intrusive) tannins. A great wine that should outlive me. Thanks Ben. A

1989 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi Tough being against the Monprivato, but this was really a very nice wine. D arker fruits, licorice, floral, nice mouthfeel. B+/A-

Great veal chop with broccoli rabe, and plenty more truffle.

1989 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Bricco Rocche A kind weird coughdrop note, red fruit, a little clipped on finish. B-

1989 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate Black cherry, anise and herbs, good length, medium bodied. I liked more tha n some. B+/A-

1989 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Prapò This showed well on the palate but Chris called corked right away. I got a little cement note but didn't think corked, but it really came out with air . Flawed

Final flight

1989 Vietti Barolo Rocche Red and black fruits, structured, young, I don't really follow Vietti, mayb e I should! A-

1989 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis A bit plodding, some good fruit but a slight roasted edge, wood apparent th ough not really obtrusive. B

Lots of varied opinions, but I think Monprivato was unanimous WOTN

I really didn't need any more wine, but I did try the dessert wines (though I passed on ice cream with truffles)

1989 Frogs Leap Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc My palate is pretty shot, but this still managed to impress. Apricot, cocon ut, orange zest, caramel. I didn't expect this to be this interesting.

1995 Fontodi Vin Santo No notes, I recall it as good, moderate sweetness, but preferred the SB.

Fun night with a great group. Over the top good food, great variety of wine s. Special thanks for David who secured us 300 grams of top notch truffles at a fantastic price.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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DaleW
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