do i "fine" wine BEFORE cold stabilization?

my wine, as i mentioned before, is in the garage as we speak. i was planning on leaving it out here for a few days then bringing it in, and before bottling which will be in late jan or in feb, degas it then fine it. but from what i have heard,,everybody else seems to add the betonite BEFORE coldstabilizing it?!?!? so, am i doing this backwards or does it not matter too much. currently we are in the 30's here where i live, by mid week we will be in the teens and 20s so my bottles will be coming in very soon, dopnt know id i got rid of any tartaric acid or not so perhaps this whole thing was a waste of time ...any thoughts out there? thansk bunch

Reply to
MOhar871
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coldstabilizing

Here are some thoughts.

Sometimes a new wine will have several defects, and it will be obvious to the winemaker that multiple fining treatments will be needed. In general, fining operations are done in the following sequence. (1) Treat any hydrogen sulfide problems with copper sulfate as soon as fermentation is done. (2) Cold stabilize the wine to remove potassium bitartrate. Chilling also helps clean up the wine, and it reduces the microbe population. (3) Use protein materials (gelatin, casein, Isinglass, egg whites, etc.) to fine the wine for astringency, clarity or color problems. (4) Fine with bentonite to remove excess protein and make white and blush wines hot stabile. The bentonite fining will help remove any left over protein material, and it may also improve wine clarity. But, small wineries often depart from the sequence given above to reduce handling. They fine their white and blush wines with bentonite and then immediately cold stabilize the wine. During cold stabilization, the soft bentonite lees are compacted by the tartrate crystals, and the compacted lees make racking much easier.

Reply to
Lum

I don't fine reds unless they need it, although Bentonite fining of whites to strip out troublesome protein is a good idea. Cold stabilization is also a good idea, but you need to keep the wine cold for at least three weeks. Put a thermometer next to the carboy and watch it. Air temp will drop (or rise) many hours before the wine temp changes, but do not let a wine drop below 25 degrees F. or it will freeze and be a disaster (airlock will push out, wine will overflow, and then the carboy will probably break).

If you can't control the temp, bring it inside when the temp drops below 25. However, you can build a "cold box" for sub-25 degree weather. All you need is a cardboard box tall enough for the carboy with airlock and a couple of inches clearance all around. Run an extension cord into it with a 7-watt night-light (no stronger!). Turn on the light, being careful to make sure it does not touch the cardboard box. Close up the box and the wine will not freeze even if the temp drops to zero.

Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page

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Reply to
Jack Keller

Lum, Are you saying that you would fine out the bitterness in whites immediately without letting age try to do it?? Isn't most young wine somewhat astringent anyway? You don't let the wine bulk age first before you start fining? Do you always cold stabilize right after fermentation and what about MLF, do you let that finish if you making a chardonnay, for example?

On another note, if I was making a fruity wine would the sequence be fermentation, sulfite to stop MLF, fine then cold stablize?

TIA,

Bob

Reply to
bob

Hi Bob, I didn't mean to imply _when_ fining should be done. My intent was to list the preferred order of fining operations when multiple fining treatments are needed. For example.... bentonite is used to remove excess protein. Gelatin is protein. So fining with bentonite and _then_ fining with gelatin makes little sense.

Yes. Treating for hydrogen sulfide should be done as soon as possible, but most of the other fining treatments are best done late in the winemaking process. Sorry about the confusion.

If I were making a "fruity" Chardonnay, I would (1) ferment to dryness, (2) add SO2, (3) do nothing except stir the lees and maintain SO2 for ~90 days (many people prefer to rack off the yeast lees much earlier but I think the improved mouth feel and the lighter color are more important than the small loss in fruit), (4) fine with bentonite and immediately start cold stabilization, (5) rack off the Bentonite lees, (6) bottle using a tight pad filter after a few weeks.

Please note that "cold stabilization" is really only applicable to wines containing large amounts of tartaric acid (wines made from grapes).

Regards, lum

Reply to
Lum

Lum,

You weren't confusing at all. I always appreciate anyone taking the time to answer my questions, especially someone as knowledgable as yourself. Like so many others on this board , your very generous and I appreciate it.

Thanks again,

Bob

Reply to
bob

Thanks for the kind words Bob. They are much appreciated. lum

Reply to
Lum

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