How do you prevent H2S from starting?

I have just had a batch of Riesling go all H2S on me, and I can't figure out why. I've read all the ways to fix it now that it's done, and I'm working on those, but I want to know how to keep it from happening on my next batch. Any comments on how to keep it from happening to begin with, or what I've done that promoted the start of H2S.

I used 150 lbs of ripe grapes, with just a touch of botrytis (no fuzzy grapes, though), from a local vineyard, who also grow for local commercial wineries. They claim that their pest control process only uses Sulfur prior to bud-break, 3 applications total. I got the grapes on a Friday, crushed them that afternoon, and let them sit on their skins overnight (14 hours total). 15 gallons of must, measuring

20 brix, .62 TA, 3.1 pH (that last might be off, I'm having trouble with my pH meter :-)). No sugar or acid adjustment. Added 15 campden tablets, and mixed as well as I could. Pressed in the morning, getting 6 gal free run, and 4.5 gal pressed juice, keeping them separate. Brought up each to 50ppm sulfite.

Started the yeast later that day, using two strains from Morebeer.com (QA23 and RHST), neither one being Montrachet, nor implicated in H2S production before that I know of. The RHST started better than the QA23, such that I stole a little of the float of the RHST to boost the QA23. They ran for about a day and a half without problems, then suddenly instead of a brown yeast cap, I suddenly had a white cap and a heavy rotten egg smell. It's at 16 Brix, and the sulfite level went down to about 25ppm.

Any ideas on what to do to avoid this in the future? I'd be glad to answer any questions anyone has if it'll help figure out the problem.

Rob

Reply to
Rob
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Rob,

There are a few ways to minimize the risk of H2S.

Avoid yeasts that are known to have a tendency to cause H2S such as Montrachet. Make sure your must has adequate nutrient by adding DAP (diammonium phosphate). Keep the wine off the autolyzed yeast as much as possible by racking it frequently.

Others may have more suggestions.

Glen Duff

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Rob wrote:

Reply to
Glen Duff

Two things that come to mind:

  1. The sulfite additions seems excessive, especially the second one to bring it to 50ppm. Maybe the sulfur is coming from this?

  1. Always add yeast nutrient and/or DAP as Glen said. Yeasts need nitrogen and can develop H2S problems if they don't get enough. Also, I heard Riesling is one the musts that can easily develop H2S, so adequate nutrients are important. You should also consider building a healthy yeast population by rehydrating in Startup or GoFerm and making a starter.

Pp

Reply to
pp

I agree that the sulphite additions seemed excessive, although I've had in the past found that my experience with campden, what should be

50ppm in a must always came out 25-30ppm after pressing. I always assumed it was bad mixing and the pulp absorbing the addition.

That does raise another question on technique - if there's something converting sulphite to sulfur, how do you avoid that?

Finally, I did use Go-Ferm in making the starter. The yeast, especially the RHST, ran very strong for those first couple of hours; I had no concern as to whether or not fermentation had begun. Whatever happened caught up to a solid fermentation from behind and shut it down.

For those making Riesling from grapes, how often do you rack it during primary fermentation?

Rob

Reply to
Rob

The Go-Ferm is a rehydrating nutrient to make the yeast start strong. It's not the same as regular yeast nutrient like Fermaid K, Superfood or DAP. Specifically, in terms of H2S prevention, these nutrients supply the yeast with nitrogen. So if this was a grape must, my guess would be the lack of yeast nutrients was the culprit - you've got the fermentation to a good start with Go Ferm, but then the yeast got stressed.

I don't think there is any need for racking, if you let the pressed juice settle and clarify and ferment the clarified juice only. But it might depend on the yeast you're using, some of them need additional oxygen during fermentation.

Pp

Reply to
pp

There are 2 things you can do that would help a lot: (1) Cold settle the juice thoroughly and rack away from the sediment prior to fermentation. (2) Use adequate levels of yeast nutrient, added in stages, during fermentation.

A third suggestion is to avoid yeast strains that have a known tendency to produce H2S.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

Thanks, guys, for all the ideas. I appreciate the help, and hope to do better next time.

Rob

Reply to
Rob

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