Leapfrog gong-fu

Michael Plant, who has enriched this group with a diversity of wit, wisdom and actual useful information that would do credit to Dr. Johnson, has admitted to employing a twist on the usual metronomic or monotonically lengthening interval between gong-fu steeps. Viz.: he'll do a pot the usual way, immediately take a second extraction, then let the pot rest until both cups have been consumed. Or something like that; he can explain better.

While discovering aberrant behavior at this locus is not in itself surprising, the merits of this technique might be. First, allow me to assert a few presuppositions, unproven by "Science" AFAIK:

  1. Many people seem to imagine tea brewing as though a pill or bolus of matter were smoothly dissolving. This is definitely not the case. Even the refinement of considering some goop smeared into the pores of a sponge doesn't quite make it.

  1. While dry leaf may equilibrate thermally in a second or two, full hydration probably takes closer to a minute.

2a. On the former point, BTW and contrary to popular myth, the mass of wet leaves does not cool at any appreciable rate between steeps. (A full pot cools even less.) Most of the cooling that people report is a single step-drop due to thermal capacity of un-tempered vessels. All that mythology about how various vessels hold heat during brewing is bunkum, IMO. The dominant factor in open containers is evaporative loss; nothing else can compare in magnitude. Sorry to be so opinionated, but people waste so much effort worrying about this non-phenomenon.

  1. Substances are extracted from the leaf by multiple mechanisms on multiple length scales, from direct displacement off polymer surfaces and out of interstices, to diffusion and percolation through pores in the leaf structure, to gross convective mixing in the bulk.

  2. The rate of these processes depends intimately on the local environment. This means hydration on the nano- and micro-scales, and mechanical separation at the leaf-in-water level. It also means that relative extraction rates of diverse substances may be very different in the first few steeps, before the "dilute solution" approximation applies - especially within leaf pores and in the polymer matrix.

  1. So instead of (1), a more accurate representation might be similar to the "coupled compartment" model used in dive computers to estimate tissue nitrogen loading, further modified to accommodate Case 1 and Case 2 diffusion (ie., diffusion that is linear or history-dependent) as hydration is achieved, and non-linearities early on due to the concentration of extractables that themselves affect solvent properties.

I know, that was all obvious. Here's the fun part: I've actually done a few dozen crude experiments with Michael's approach, and confirmed that once the leaf is fully hydrated (usually after one or two steeps), extraction continues at about the same rate whether the pot is full or "empty." This is not surprising: once the rate of extraction has declined to the point that there is little solvent change due to solutes, there is more than enough water in and on the leaf to "carry" what's coming out of those notional compartments. There just lacks any bulk fluid to carry it away. Since the pot innards stay hot, the intersteep hiatus is actually "stewing" those valuable leaves.

Michael's method helps a lot, and is instructive as regards change in flavor balance (as distinct from overall intensity) with oversteeping. What I found works even better, though I can rarely be bothered, is to make that fast second steep with much cooler water, just at comfortable drinking temperature. This washes off the ready-to-go goodies, and leaves the leaves in a calm mood to await a new poaching after I've consumed both cups. Makes a more uniform series of steeps. It also means that in addition to the 300 pots that Michael has demonstrated are necessary for any serious tea drinker, you will also need a second Zojirushi.

-DM

Reply to
Dog Ma 1
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I'm so glad you wrote up your insights, DM.

Or, you can just brew tea like an old Chinese guy, spacing the time between quick steeps according to when the next "inter-steep steep" is ready to be flushed with hot water. One thing I'd like to know is: does a traditional gongfu master consciously think in terms of when it's time to do the next steep, or is it just implicit knowledge?

/Lew

Reply to
Lewis Perin

Dog Ma 1gKU6d.649444$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net9/30/04

10:28spamdogma snipped-for-privacy@att.net reply w/o spam

I hardly recognize myself. Please don't applaud; just throw tea. I merely found that received and conventional wisdom that suggests increasing the steep time for each successive steep of gungfu tea often leads to unpleasantly strong and overpowering tea. Conversely, I found that ultra-rapid steeps -- following "rest" periods of some minutes as the damp leaves await their next hot inundation -- work great, releasing more good tea liquor than you might otherwise expect. However, the ultra-rapid steep, followed on the heels of a previous steep, yields an unacceptably weak cup. The conclusion is that something important is happening while the damp leaves are resting. Now to read the rest of Dog Ma's post, where he probably explains this better than I could.

Those of us who own cats are quite familiar with the nature of boli of matter.

Bunkum: My favorite form of science. So, in practice, to increase or decrease the rate of cooling going on in there, cover or uncover the pot, right?

Polymer tea leaves: There's an idea whose time has come. Somebody's gonna make a bundle, mark my words.

Something tells me polymer ain't plastic any more.

Yup. Toldya.

Which is a good thing or a bad thing depending on the type of tea we're "stewing". Oolongs are the tea of choice here, IMO.

I see your point here of course, but uniformity is not what I'm after. Tea is more interesting when each steep is a surprise. Lately and curiously, I've found that in gungfuing Oolongs aroma sometimes diminishes and intensifies through various steeps, which is not what I would expect; I'd expect aroma to continue to diminish, and having diminished, disappear entirely. Maybe it's something I'm doing wrong. Or right. Or something.

And I will second that. In fact, I often do use two.

Thanks for explicating, Dog Ma.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Plant

There's something I should have remembered in writing my original response to Dog Ma's illuminating post:

Dog's main point was that, once the leaves in a brewing vessel get soaked with hot water, the steeping will continue even after the liquor is poured off. He explores some of the consequences, limiting himself to gongfu brewing.

But his insight applies to *all* multi-steep brewing, and I want to call people's attention to its consequences for brewing green tea. Many of us have learned to do a second steep of green tea that is shorter than the first. For delicate senchas, we basically pour off the liquor of the second steep as fast as possible. Now the reason for this is clear: the second steep just dilutes the highly concentrated liquor - the zavarka, Sasha? - that's already been brewed

*inside* the leaves.

/Lew

Reply to
Lewis Perin

Now the reason

Zets rait, tovarisch! And the world tea bourguosee iz trying to hide thiz from ze peoplez. Tea drinkers of the world, unite!

Sasha.

Reply to
Alex Chaihorsky

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