3 of 9 Burgs corked; Pavie Syndrome

Jan 22, 2005 4 Replies

I belong to co-operative tasting groups (groups that gather to try wines, usually blind, sharing the expense and duties) [1,2]. At a recent tasting of nine 2002 Nuits St. Georges, three wines were TCA-contaminated ("corked"). Most or all of the 11 tasters noticed the three, and remarked in their blind tasting notes before we discussed the wines. The contaminated wines varied in degree and nuances, but still, 33% is a record in my experience. (A small sample, of course. Contrary to Cervantes, by a small sample we may not judge the whole of these wines.)



After the blind tasting, as the host passed plates of cheeses and other foods, one cheese was named phonetically as "pavie." I asked if this name implied that it was a cheese long enjoyed by people who knew cheeses of that part of the world, then suddenly in demand among people who had never mentioned it until new ownership, and a perfect "score" from one taster who favors numbers, and its price increasing 10 times? No, I was told. But also, asserted some who've tried the New Pavie (the wine), that product seems to them weird, and it was unclear to these people of experience just how that wine would age. (This is not the preoccupation, evidently, of its new devotees.) So that factor too must be included among the signs of the full Pavie Syndrome.



Your health -- Max


[1] By the way -- to anyone not in them already! -- regular tasting groups are an excellent economical way for anyone to try new wines as they come on the market; to share information, learn about wines, spot good ones independent of reliance on newsletter tasters who cause thousands to seek the identical wine and drive up its price; etc. Such tasting groups are many in the region where I live, and they have a long history.
[2] Of the co-operative tasting groups I attend now, the first began in Berkeley, California in the 1970s and I joined in January 1982. Soon after, on 27 Feb 1982, Charles Wetherell posted a charter message for net.wines, which became rec.food.drink in late 1986. For years after that, there was a plan and consensus to spin off, with sufficient traffic, rec.food.drink.wine. However, not everyone knew this, newbies least of all, and some of the people who did know it were not reading at the particular moment when, in 1994, amid impatience and a fad for creating "alt" newsgroups at whim, the spin-off became instead this newsgroup, alt.food.wine.


(Please: Should you choose to reply and quote this article, be classy and edit it down to the parts you're responding to. See RFC1855 for further guidance. This advice online dates to 1982, too.)


3 out of 9? Yikes. My personal worse was a Riesling offline with 3 of
  1. I usually average 5% TCA detection, so while I understand that a
33% rate with one small sample isn't a real statistical anomaly, it still stinks. And if one has to have an event with a 33% rate, why couldn't it be say a tasting of 2002 Cotes du Rhone?!?! :)

Was the cheese goat or cow? I know of 2 Pavés, one goat (can't remember exact name) and one cow (Pavé d'Auge) .

I found neither the '98 nor '00 Pavie to be quite the caricature that the most vociferous "opponents" do; but I can't say it's my ideal. I quite enjoyed some of the old regime Pavies. sorry again for the TCA! best, Dale

We have done 102 Bordeaux from the 1995 vintage in three sessions over the last 14 days. Cork rate was an absolute catastrophy. I haven't made the exact count, but from those wines immediately proven contaminated by a back-up bottles, plus these single bottles that were doubtless corked, the average surpassed 30 percent. If we add those wine where a single or both bottles didn't show too well (i.e. two bottles of Grand-Puy-Lacoste, normally a Parker 95 wine - coming directly from the chateau, btw, as did the great majority of the wines), we're probably close to

40 percent.

This was the tasting for the annual "Bordeaux 10 Years After" article I do for ViNARIA magazine since the 1988 vintage. I'll write it up today, and the title is clear: "The Cork Disaster".

Cow. (There was a group of cheeses in a roughly similar style from various origins.)

I have not tried the new Ch. Pavie myself, so I have no opinion on its style. The comments I mentioned were from others at a recent wine tasting. (At least two of whom have been tasting critically for longer than has the particular writer who gave New Pavie a perfect numerical score, though they are not newsletter writers themselves.) Now that I think of it, I have been enjoying Old Pavie since before the particular writer started publishing. When I heard about the Pavie property's massive ownership change (before the New Pavie was on the market), I bought up what I could of the last few years of Old Pavie (needless to say, at moderate prices), having no idea what the future held for the New Pavie. I did not expect the abrupt change in awareness of Ch. Pavie, coincident with its losing its heritage.

By the way, _one_ of the people at that recent tasting that I mentioned goes way back. He was comparing the aging profile of one of the 2002 Burgundies we tasted to that of the same house's 1955 when tasted young. This seemed to interest or amaze one of the younger tasters present (born long after 1955). That is one of the fringe benefits of these tasting groups that I keep advocating: They bring people together, even from different eras.

M. Prónay's report of TCA is alarming, he had a much larger sample than our mere nine bottles. (I hope it is not a new trend.)

-- Max

Of course corked wines are anything but new, but your reports on recent classified Bordeauxs are alarming. I have not added any first growths since the 1989 vintage when I bought Haut-Brion and the 1990 vintage when I bought Chateau Margaux. I do not buy wines to age for decades anymore because of my age and because of the great inflation in prices of first growths. I hope my 89 and 90 wines do not prove to be corked. Like cancer, bad corks do not respect reputation or class. I have had a corked 1970 from DRC. I am for screw caps or something of the sort. However I think a more heavy duty cap that will not bend or dent and that may use a better seal such as Teflon may be justified for expensive wines that may be kept for decades.

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