Pavie Macquin

Jan 26, 2008 3 Replies

These are notes from a dinner tasting of Ch. Pavie-Macquin, a St. Emilion that has been showing well in recent vintages.



A small property of about 15 ha near Pavie and Troplong Mondot, they produce an average of 60,000 bottles. In the reclassification, they received elevation to Premier Grand Cru Classé. They have specifically espoused a wish to 'reveal the terroir' since 1995. This event was aimed at assessing what all the fuss was about, and so the wines were intended to cover the recent history of the chateau..


1996 Feuillatte Ay Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs - this bubbly was rather impressive with a very good and complex nose, nice flavour, good concentration and balance.

With seared Ahi tune, celery root remoulade:


1989 - ripe hot nose, not quite Maderised but having suffered heat at some point. Came from the US.


1990 - brown, maderised wine, spoiled. Same source.


1995 - one good out of three - not a great start. This wine had a very nice nose, dark fruit and cedar, good intensity on entry, fresh in the mouth, and was pleasant now, with far les tannin than I'd expected.


With saddle of rabbit and boudin noir with morel cream:


1996 - lots of intensity in this nose, more dark fruit, huge structure and still hard tannins that ended with an astringent finish. Not sure where it is going.


1998 - interesting chocolate syrup nose, lots of tannin, but softer than the 96, and the fruit sweeter. A bigger bodied very attractive wine that tightened up at the end.


1999 - plum, earth and mushroom in the nose, medium body, soft tannin, fruit sweeter than 96, the most currently drinkable of this trio.

With duck and porcini risotto:


2000 - nice coffee mocha nose, bright acidity on the tip of the tongue, but reasonably soft on palate, and well balanced. Pleasant wine.


2001 - Eureka - the first wine that displayed any detectable St. Emilion character, despite the avowed intention s of the producer. The nose is still pretty much primary fruit at this point, with almost no differentiation. Quite forward and pleasant with soft tannins(surprisingly so for the age), it drinks well now and borders on elegant.



With beef loin and oxtail 'en crepinette':


2003 - dark purple with a nose almost as sweet and ripe as an Aussie Shiraz, a bit hot. Nonetheless the tannins were reasonably soft and the wine very pleasantly drinkable.


2004 - dark purple with a plummy oatmeal sort of nose. Bigger wine than the 2001, and more like a Bordeaux in the nose.


1999 - Ch. Guiraud - light golden colour, ton of fresh acidity, which made it seem less sweet and almost more like an Alsatian Vendage Tardif Only a little botrytis. I don't know how this will age, but it drinks quite well now.

Verdict - for a wine intended to be terroir driven, I saw little sign of that here. To elevate it on the basis of only a few years of inconsistent results seems precipitate to me. I have not bought it in the past and on the evidence of this tasting (discounting the two spoiled bottles, of course) I will not collect it in the future. I will taste when possible to chart any progress in future, but at the moment, it isn't what I look for in a St. Emilion.


Is this an interesting case of bottle differences or another example of how different people rate wines so very differently? — I wonder about Bill‘s source‘s storage as does he. The 1989 and 1990 were both before Nicolas Thienpont took over (in 1994) and I cannot remember drinking those vintages in recent years. However I do not think that I have ever had a bottle of Pavie-Macquin which I remember with less than pleasure since he took control. I tasted the 2004 last year at the Chateau as well as 2002 — a difficult year and have drunk both the

1995 and 1996 in 2006 — both seemd to me still to be young with the and needing time. It goes without saying that the same is true of the 2001 and I would say truer still of the 1998, 2000 and 2004.

Please give me a ring if you have any queries. . I must say that I differ with Bill - I could easily see why the Chateau had been promoted even in a year when some of the promotions were controversial this did not seem to be one of those. Out of interest I looked to see what Stephen Brook says in his new book on Bordeaux and was not entirely surprised to see that his views and mine largely coincide — not always true about Saint-Emilion - I quote:

”The only venerable Pavie-Macquin I have tasted is the 1937, which was very acidic and dry - no pleasure there after half a century. I found the 1990 and 1992 charmless, but from 1995 onwards quality has been very high. The 1995 itself has an elegant if oaky nose, a voluptuous texture, soft, ripe tannins, and excellent length. The 1996 has smoky, oaky aromas, and like the 1995 is very well balanced, with every element in place, though it is less fleshy than the 1995. The 1999 has a light structure but clear and sustained fi-uit. The 1998, tasted recently, had a pronounced mintiness on the nose and palate,an excellent attack,a tight structure,and impressive length. Pavie-Macquin was untouched by the hailstorm in 1999,so the wine that year remains impeccable: very oaky with some coffee tones, concentrated and juicy, with ample tannins and extract without being overbearing. The 2000 is more sumptuous and generous, though there is a slight confected tone, but that may well diminish with further age. My notes on the 2001, 2002, and 2003 are in the same vein. The 2004 is magnificent, and when tasted blind alongside the premiers crus,it showed at the Same level, with intense aromas, wonderfully ripe tannins, abundant fleshy fruit, and ample lift and elegance. Few St-Emilions, over the past decade at any rate, offer the same consistency as Pavie-Macquin.”

I am surprised that Bill finds these are not true to Saint-Emilion character - I take it he means the traditional character of the Jurisdiction rather than the modern or Parkerised character which finds favour in some quarters. The truth is there is a range of Saint-Emilions almost as wide as the range of soils — it is one of the pleasures of the place. Bill might find it interesting to taste some of these again against, for example, Pavie Decesse or Pavie at one end of the scale and, say, Grand Mayne or Beau-Séjour-Bécot amongst the traditional. (I know Grand-Mayne is GCC not PGCC — but only because, as in the case of Figeac, the Commission said that it did not charge enough for its wine to be promoted!)

Tim Hartley

Sorry about this intrusion from the clipboard in my last message — it was not meant to be there!!

Tim Hartley

Bill might find it interesting to taste some

I guess I am a bit of a 'terroirist', but none of us really saw it in this wine, with the exception of the 2001.

I grant you that the ideal is a bit much to look for when so many wines have been through the 'blender' of Parkerization, and many Bordeaux last showed true typicity in the 1970s!

As for other St. Emilions I enjoy, I own and like the 1995 Grand Mayne, 94 Beausejour Becot, 95 La Croix du Casse, 93 and 95 Magdaleine, and have a half case of Pavie Mcquin 1995 so far untouched (these are just the more recent vintages). Based on this tasting I am going to have to locate that case of the 95 PM pretty soon and tuck into it.

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