A tale of two cabs

Feb 24, 2008 1 Replies

The first distinctive thing that one notices about "Root:1 Cabernet Sauvignon 2005" from the Colchagua Valley in Chile is the label, or rather lack of same. Instead, there is a painted graphic of a grape vine extending the full length of the bottle, with painted text in a contrasting color surrounding it. The image that they are portraying is the fact that these are very old pre-Philoxera era roots that extend very deeply into the earth.



There were pronounced Black Currant, Cassis, and Cherry flavors that leapt out from the dark brooding color. The finish was long, and the mouthfeel full. This was not some bulk wine that the shipper wanted to unload by utilizing an eye catching gimmick on the bottle. Definitely a keeper.



The second Cab I approached with greater apprehension last night. My only past experiences with Argentinian wines have been with the Malbec grape, and none of the examples that I have tasted have left a very favorable impression.



This one, Called "Chakana Cabernet Sauvignon 2005" came from Lujan de Cuyo in Mendoza. It was a brilliant ruby red color, and aromas of ripe Blackcurrant, red pepper and mint were easy to find. Yet, if I were tasting this wine blind, I doubt if I would have identified it as a Cabernet Sauvignon. It had a character all its own, and was a perfect match for the Spanish Pimenton crusted Chuletas de Cerdo that I prepared along with boiled miniature Fingerling Potatoes and Petite Pois. This is not a wine to lay down for forty years to open on my twenty-ninth birthday. ;-)



I have read that the producer is able to ship this product at an attractive price by immersing staves in the fermentation tanks, rather than going to the labor intensive expense of making wooden barrels. But, who cares how the results are achieved? This is a wine for here and now - with food. :-)



Godzilla


My local Costco has Root:1 at $9 (IIRC), so I tried a bottle. It's pretty good as you describe, though I thought I might have detected a hint of concentrate or perhaps a tad of residual sugar. For a dollar each more, I picked up several bottles of Cameron Hughes Lot 40 McClaren Vale Cab, which is similarly fruit forward without the hint of candy.

I tend to regard the Cameron Hughes bottlings as far over-hyped, but they're cheap enough that I'll try one of each bottling when I see them. The Lot 59 Sonoma Chard is OK too, though it's only a dollar less than the consistently very nice Chateau St. Michelle Indian Wells Chardonnay.

Cheers, Dana

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