An Eclectic Tasting and a Silver Oak Q

Oct 17, 2003 8 Replies

Last Wednesday I had one of the most interesting tasting experiences of my life: A group of cardiothoracic surgeons holding their congress in Vienna chartered me to tutor a tasting for them. They had brought 18 wines put together in 3 flights of 6.



Never before I had commented on such an eclectic array of wines, among these a German pinot noir (1998 Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken, Familie Schlumberger, Laufen, Baden) and one from Burgundy (1995 Santenay 1er Cru Passe-Temps, Bernard Morey & Fils), the German batting the latter into the doldrums, btw.



Valinière 2000 is a Vin de Table from the Herault region, so concentrated it was judged untypical for the AOC Faugères. It's made by Paul Barral from antediluvian Grenache vines, blended with



15% syrah. It was probably the most concentrated wine I have ever had in my life.

From Rioja there were two 1994s: Barón de Oña Reserva and Gran Reserva 904 from la Rioja Alta. Although the former was the more concentrated wine (both come from the same stable, btw), I preferred the classic traditional sweetness of the latter.



A Châteauneuf towards the end of its useful life (1992 Domaine Marcoux Vieilles Vignes) led to the second flight devoted mainly to Claret: 2000 Amiral de Beychevelle (quite good), 1999 Lilian Ladouys (fine), 1997 Léoville-Barton (very fine) and 1995 Magdeleine (very evolved). A 1999 Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz showed why these Oz jams are so successfull. Chapoutier's



1990 Hermitage (very evolved, but still with with plenty of life) closed this flight.

Tsar Simeon 1995 from Bulgaria was a quite nice cabernet, reminding me of its Chilean cousins. A 1995 Barolo (Azelia, Luigi Scavino) was very typical. We finished with four Californians, two of them absolutely stunning and world class by any standard: 1999 Couterpoint, Laurel Glen (very promising); 1996 Ridge Monte Bello (probably the finest younger Californian Cabernet I ever had, but my experience is not *that* broad); 1984 Ridge Monte Bello (very evolved in a traditional Bordeaux style, beginning to dry out); and 1985 Stag's Leap Cask 23 (Wow! Absolutely incredible intensity of pure and in the same time complex fruit, an eye opener to great Cal cabs).



Thanking a few attendants with a bottle each, the "Corker General" (Robert Repogle from Chikago - I just saw his cellar was reviewed here:


or


- and scroll down)



presented me a bottle of Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 1994.



Having no idea about this wine (but presuming it being quite good, judging from where the donator's cellar was reviewed), could someone give me an idea about what I have to expect - and when to drink it? Apparently the bottle has been stored since release at



55°F; my longtime underground cellar is at 50°F.

Thank you in advance,



M.


Glad to see you had some of Californias finest.

Have you ever had any Chateau Montelena Estate Bottled Cabernet...the ones from the early 1980's are spectatular.

Dick

It was a truly amazing experience.

Sorry, no. Some 10 years ago I had Heitz' Martha's Vineyard (don't remeber the vintage, but it was a far cry from the two above). For the rest, my repetitive experience is limited to Gallo & Mondavi, both holding press tastings with their top wines over here from time to time, the next being a Mondavi Napa Vally Cabernet Sauvignon vertical on Monday.

Any idea?

M.

Yes, there are two Silver Oaks 1994. A Napa and an Alexander Valley.

They are very good wines. 1994 was probably their last exceptional vintage.

Good examples of premium Cal Cabs but not in the same ballpark as Chateau Montelena, Stags Leap Cask 23, Fay....or others that will improve for 10 years and hold for 30 years.

Silver Oak is a wine with a massive cult following. I know...until 1996 vintage I was one of the cult. Rumor has it they are getting back to their greatness. It will take several vintages for me to make that determination.

Enjoy.

Sorry, I didn't realise that there were two versions. Mine happens to be from Alexander Valley.

Thanks for the info!

M.

The Alexander Valley you have is really my favorite.

Silver Oak was pure premium 100% Cabernet prior to 1996. In 1996 the Napa Release became a blend similar to Bordeaux type. The Alexander has remained Cabernet and is outstanding.

1994 can drink now or hold as it will improve until 2014. (I would say drink by 2010)

This link will tell you about this bottle.

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94&w=2

Thanks a lot, I will cellar it a few more years.

M.

That's a surprise, from my experience w/Spätburgunder (indeed limited, 2 lousy wines). Was the German pinot that good, or the Burg that bad? Morey I find a mediocre producer, and some 95s are closed now.

Wow, sounds like somethng to look for (but maybe to drink by itself!)

Hmm, I just passed that by the other day. I had found that a poor second in other vintages. If I go back by that shop, I'll pick up one now

House is on the modern side, but quite good really, and not outrageously priced

While I'm with the crowd that refers to the wine lately as "Silver Joke", as Dick said they used to make wines worth the hype, at least in 1991 and 1994. Nice bottle. As for how long to keep? Probably about the same as a modern style Bordeaux from a ripe low-acid moderately tannic vintage - I'd guess 10-18 years from vintage offers best drinking.

thanks for the fun notes! Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

The truth with better German pinots is very simple: They are sought-after in Germany, and they are so expensive, that no US importer ever thought about bringing them over the pond. On an objective scale (if that is possible), some of them them are really fine. I liked this elegant and rounded example very much. Otoh: If Bernard Morey's wine was "only" closed or is starting to dry out - I don't know. It had significantly less charm (and far more edges) than its German cousin.

If you can get reach of a bottle, stick to it. I guess I'd modify my statement from "most concentrated in my life" to "most concentrated wine for years".

Thank you for your help.

You're welcome ;-)

M.

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